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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2002 Posts: 32 Member | Member Joined: May 2002 Posts: 32 | Ok, I have two small holes right behind the headlight about the size of these smiley faces...  How would you guys recommed I fix these? And remember, I've never done this stuff before....
MbOutdoors (Lorne) 1952 Chev 1300
| | | | Joined: May 2002 Posts: 32 Member | Member Joined: May 2002 Posts: 32 | Ok, no answers so far... did I break some etiquette rule or is the question just too dumb to bother answering? Oh well....
MbOutdoors (Lorne) 1952 Chev 1300
| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 203 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 203 | OK - are these rust holes? What is the surrounding metal like? What kind of rig is it? Do you want to show the truck? Is it going to be a daily driver? Do you have a MIG/TIG welder? Is the phrase "Bondo it up" familiar to you? Can you post a picture or the offending holes or send one to me via email? | | | | Joined: May 2002 Posts: 32 Member | Member Joined: May 2002 Posts: 32 | Yes these are holes straight through, the surrounding metal is pretty solid... surface rust but still solid (can't just poke through it). I don't have a Mig, but I'm thinking about buying one and learning how to use it. It is going to be a regular summer time driver, I'm not considering doing a frame off or anything, just a project for my son and I to work on over the years to come. The rig is a 1952 Chev with a 235 from a donor car in there, in pretty good shape throughout with the usual rotten cab corners, and 1 dent in each of the rear fenders, rotten bed floor, rust through in one of the running boards etc. I was thinking about doing it bondo, but I also heard that a couple of well place zaps with a mig welder might patch them up nicely. Thank you for any info you can provide fenders.  And sorry I don't have any pics to post right now, the truck is still in my Dad's yard out at the lake, I'm trying to heal from a herniated disc in my back and figure I can gather a bunch of info now during my down time.
MbOutdoors (Lorne) 1952 Chev 1300
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | Check with the guys at www.autobodystore.com they will know for sure. Since you have holes in your running boards too you might as well have them all fixed at the same time. I would just take it to a good welder.
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | Joined: May 2000 Posts: 234 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2000 Posts: 234 | Here's a trick I have heard - but not tried - if you have a MIG. Make sure the surrounding metal is clear of all rust before welding up. Sandblasting best, wire brush good 'nuf. Buy a big hunk of copper with a flat surface, and press it up against the back of the hole. Then weld the hole up. It acts as a heat sink (preventing a larger hole) and doesn't get welded to. Try this on a scrap piece of metal first, of course!  I'm only relating what I've heard... Or was it brass? See, I can't remember... -Boyo
'48 Willys CJ-2A / '55.1 Chevy 3600 / '66 Austin-Healey 3000 / '04 Volvo wagon (parenthood!?)
| | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 10 Member | Member Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 10 | Welcome from the other side of the prairies. Now that the snow is gone (hopefully) we can get back to work. A mig welder is a great investment. I would be lost without mine. You will find tons to do with it on the truck. I picked up some thin gauge sheet metal at Princess Auto. Use snips to cut it to the approximate size and shape of the hole. Hold it from the back, gently mig it up from the front. Whent the front is repaired go to the back and weld up any loose edges etc. The joy of migging is that you can grind down and build up really easily. One problem with a MIG is that it doesn't like rust, or grease, or old pait, or working in the wind. For body work it is great. Have a fun spring. David | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 203 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 203 | If you just want to get it on the road and give yourself some time? Use masking tape on the backside of the holes and apply a coating of body filler on the topside sand, prime and paint. It's not something I'd recommend for long term but you just want to get 'er on the road this is a band aide solution. Then you can fix each fender properly. Good luck and for god's sake don't tell anyone I said to do it this way.  | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Fatfenders,,, You just made headlines of the national paper! :p . . I have heard that copper or brass as well as bronze will work for the welding trick.works well for sheetmetal butt-welds too! . . .Just borrow some of G.L.Perrys` scrap! 
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us. - - Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 203 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 203 | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | i have also done fibreglass on the back of these things and a bit of bondo on the front. Lasts a real long time. Just make sure the metal is preped well (clean). | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | Eastwood sells the following tool but you can make one yourself, i bet. Welders Helper Item No. - 19038 Use for repairing small holes, rips or voids between panels. Copper "spoon" supports your welding from behind. Also acts as a heat sink to prevent warpage. http://www.eastwoodco.com/ | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 33 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 33 | the way to go is with copper, something as small as about .030 copper will work.just stick it behind the hole and weld it up. | | |
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