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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | 1948 3100
I have all drum brakes. They have been changed to bendix. I have a 53 3100 torque tube and 53 3100 front end. I would like to put in a dual cell master cylinder without the power boost. I would also like to have the option of being able to convert to front discs in the future if I want to.
Question. Can I install the POL dual cell master cylinder set up for disc/drum with the proportioning valve? It is setup with 2 lb residual valve in front (disc) and 10 lb residual valve to back (drum). I would plan to change the front residual valve to 10 lb to compensate for the drums. And should I run all 1/4 inch lines?
Thank you,
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | Second question. Are stock brakes sufficient if I put in the 3.55 gears?
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Stock brakes work fine for me in a 1954 Suburban (Bendix brakes) with 3.55 rear end. Your 1948 Huck brakes supposedly need more foot-pressure, so wait to hear from Huck users.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 |
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,232 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part | | Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,232 | Blue,
I have never driven my truck or used the brakes (or lack of), but i bought disc brakes for the front along with a dual frame mount master cylinder. If you want the information on it, i can send it to you. I know plenty of other guys have already done this also.
Chris | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | It's been a while since I've driven a Huck brake vehicle (last one was in the mid '90s, '49 3800), I don't recall it really needing that much pedal pressure compared to my Bendix brake '55. Both are stock master cylinder non boosted systems.
Last edited by LONGBOX55; 07/10/2014 1:28 AM.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | I've got a 49 3100 and I went through and rebuilt the entire Huck brake system. Hard lines, soft lines, shoes, MS & WS's. I've also got the 4.11 rear gears. For normal brakeing the Hucks are more than adequate with my setup. They do fine in bumper to mumper but I try to avoid this type of cruising. They also do fine in normal type brakeing. Where they need additional foot power is when stopping at speed. This is where the old term "standing on the brakes" no doubt originated from. When I say stopping at speed I mean like in a panic stop and/or stopping at the bottom of a steep grade at speed. I have literally stood on the brake pedal in a panic stop. It stopped thank goodness All the stopping power comes from you..... It is definitely different than any vacuum assisted power brake setup we've all gotten used to, theres really no comparison. Hucks don't self adjust so they need regular adjusting. With 3.55 gears you'd probably want disc's in the front. JMHO Dave | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 |
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | Sorry about that Dennis. I got lost somewhere in the thread and got off on Hucks, I see you said right off you had Bendix.....
Unfortunately I don't have a knowledgable answer to your question. I would guess that a proportioning valve wouldn't be necessary for Bendix drums on front & rear but thats just a swag on my part.
You could order a dual MS w/the proportionng valve and try it both ways, that is with the valve disonnected and then connected to see which way works best. Good luck and sorry about the hijack. Dave | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | No problem Dave. I enjoyed your comments. I'm not good when it comes to modifications to things and have decided to simply replace the original master cylinder with a dual cell one. Simple and should provide at least half brakes if anything goes terribly wrong. I just need to figure out how to check, fill and maintain the fluid levels when needed.
Thanks again
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 | Hi all, I have a 48 3100. With later drive line and brakes. I have drums all around, and a single red Master cylinder. I want to keep the drums all around and upgrade to a dual MC with power boost. I think my brakes are 53-55?
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 162 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 162 | The dual cell master cylinder swap is fairly straight forward. You need a bracket and the proper m/c, and will have to run new lines. You can use your stock pedals and nobody will ever know the difference. The only major modification is the service location. You will have to cut a new access hole in the floor board. Installing the bracket and MC are pretty easy, my 13 year old installed mine. I bent and ran the lines and checked everything behind him. Truck stops on a silver dollar, now!
Mitch | | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 162 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 162 | I forgot to mention that my install was NOT power boosted. I've only ever put power brakes on my street rodded truck. I used one of the kits with the big ugly pedal. I'm not sure how to do the power booster on a stock drum system. | | |
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