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| | | | Joined: May 2014 Posts: 44 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2014 Posts: 44 | The 51 chevy 3100 I am working on has a deeply creased driver side cowl. The previous owner backed it out of the garage with the door open and bent the door into the cowl. It is creased from top to bottom. There is no way to gain access to push the crease out without removing interior sheet metal.
I can think of two ways to approach this problem: 1) weld studs in the crease and try to pull the crease out, or 2) cut the sheet metal along the crease and then weld it up after I get the door square.
I am leaning toward the second approach because it seems easier and I think I have a better chance of getting the door frame square.
Please let me know what you think or if you have a better approach.
Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | This is a very common problem and has been discussed many times in the past, do a search and you will find plenty of ideas. Good luck! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Brad is spot on guy. Bout half of them out there have had this
damage done to them and this question pops up every month of
so. And I think you've about covered the only choices available.
If the crease is shallow I'd opt for the stud puller, but if
it's really deep then replacing the panel metal may be the only
option. What ever you do....DON'T just fill it up with Bondo.
This isn't such a major problem with the later trucks because
the don't have the side vent. To date no one is making a
replacement panel with the side vent for the earlier AD's, which
does present a problem.
Denny G
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: May 2014 Posts: 44 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2014 Posts: 44 | I had searched the forum and found plenty on cowl replacement. I was hoping that maybe I could repair rather than replace the cowl. The crease could not be any deeper and so maybe replacement is the only option.
While I have been guilty of "bondo" abuse in the past in the past I am now reformed and will strive to do a proper fix. Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | The thing which does the deciding for me which way to go, is what the condition of the outer cowl at the bottom is. If its bad there, full replacement is in order. If the entire outer cowl is otherwise sound and dented in too far for pulling, I cut the full length in the bottom of the crease. I then mount the door and see if I have to massage the hinge pillar back into place. I then pull both halves of the split out and slowly weld it back together, then pull out all of the warps which I have now created because I NEVER weld slow enough.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: May 2014 Posts: 44 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2014 Posts: 44 | Thanks 52Carl for the input.
I think the cowl is too good to replace without trying to repair it.
I am going to weld studs and try to pull beginning at the ends of the crease.
If that does not work I will cut the crease like you suggest. Then I will bolt some angle iron levers on the hinge pillar to pull it back into position. Then mount the door to make sure it fits. Then weld it back up real slow.That is my plan. Thanks for the help! | | |
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