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| | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 | I have my T5 behind a 235. Have the drive shaft. Have the rear end. Now I need to get the pinion angle set right.
Is it true that with leaf springs the angle should be 5 to 7 rather than 3 or less?
Also, the angle has to be set with weight on the springs, so the truck needs to be on the tires and on the ground. But how can I compensate for the kind of weight that will really be there when the body is on? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 | right, good point about the truck being on tires and on the ground, might want to make sure it is level, are you going to lower it, I suppose if you are concerned about the weight issue,you will need to weigh it. never realized that weight played a factor but ... maybe 46 jimmy will chime in, he is good at this stuff, what ever he says you can take it to the bank... wait, back up the truck, put the body and stuff on and be good to go for the angle,
Last edited by joker; 07/04/2014 7:55 PM.
Redryder pixMy HotrodA veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | You won't be able to set the final pinion angle until the body is on the truck with the bed wood in, fuel in the tank, etc. You can just roughly set it at much less without the weight on it, but your best bet is to do the final setting when everything is together. Check out this article. The comments from Currie are what I agree with most, 1-3 degrees, and more than that is unnecessary and could result in other issues. If you're planning on carrying weight most of the time then that will help you decide on what your angle should be, but I would stay close to that 1-3 degrees. Keep in mind your differential and transmission centerlines should be parallel ideally, for the least vibration. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 |
Redryder pixMy HotrodA veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 | You won't be able to set the final pinion angle until the body is on the truck with the bed wood in, fuel in the tank, etc. You can just roughly set it at much less without the weight on it, but your best bet is to do the final setting when everything is together. Check out this article. The comments from Currie are what I agree with most, 1-3 degrees, and more than that is unnecessary and could result in other issues. If you're planning on carrying weight most of the time then that will help you decide on what your angle should be, but I would stay close to that 1-3 degrees. Keep in mind your differential and transmission centerlines should be parallel ideally, for the least vibration. How do you mean "your differential and transmission centerlines should be parallel?" Could you elaborate/explain more? I read the article. Currie is speaking specifically about street cars (and street cars with leaf springs), but I wonder if those comments go for trucks that will be carrying a load. Anyone else want to chime in? Bickels comments are: "a leaf-spring suspension requires up to 6 to 7 degrees."
Last edited by jrdamien; 07/05/2014 1:25 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | 6-7 degrees are likely recommended for high horsepower cars. Check the application for the recommendation before final setting.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | You won't be able to set the final pinion angle until the body is on the truck with the bed wood in, fuel in the tank, etc. You can just roughly set it at much less without the weight on it, but your best bet is to do the final setting when everything is together. Check out i this article. The comments from Currie are what I agree with most, 1-3 degrees, and more than that is unnecessary and could result in other issues. If you're planning on carrying weight most of the time then that will help you decide on what your angle should be, but I would stay close to that 1-3 degrees. Keep in mind your differential and transmission centerlines smhould be parallel ideally, for the least vibration. How do you mean "your differential and transmission centerlines should be parallel?" Could you elaborate/explain more? I read the article. Currie is speaking specifically about street cars (and street cars with leaf springs), but I wonder if those comments go for trucks that will be carrying a load. Anyone else want to chime in? Bickels comments are: "a leaf-spring suspension requires up to 6 to 7 degrees." The comments apply to trucks too. You want 1-3 during the majority of your driving. Plan accordingly. I honestly can't make the centerline comment much clearer. If you draw a line through the middle of the output shaft on your transmission and another through the middle of the input on your differential, those lines should be as close to parallel as possible. Hope that helps. | | |
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