The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop to be or not to be? that is the question....

As I am doing up the rust mountain, and maybe I should rename it to 'patches' I am getting ready to do the rear cab corners. Fortunately Harbor Freight had an air nibbler for $20. For those not knowing - an air nibbler is little punch/die cutter that you can use like a sabre saw or body saw on sheet metal. Makes little quarter-moon like nibbles in the metal and cuts without deforming (and is really EASY to use).

Funny thing is that 3 days before it went on sale, I bought a flanger (makes a z bend so you can lap joint on a patch panel) for $50, which went on sale for $25, so I returned the flanger, and then bought it back, with the nibbler for same money! (plus some wire brushes)

So I got out and cut out the nasty bits, and I have some of those cheapo cab corner (outer) stampings to weld in. I also noticed that the back of the cab is slightly deformed from the rough treament the truck got, which is going to make patching a bit more of a pain. I cut off the box because it had every mount busted when they pushed the truck around with a dozer, and it had all the flooring rusted out of the tool boxes (amongst other 'features'). Now the questions:

1. Do I cut to the size of the patch panel, or cut the patch panel down to just what i need? I am thinking the later.

2. The inner cab bit is also gone on both sides. So as this truck is not going to be a con-cooors winner, I am wondering, should I skip the cab corners and just patch across with sheet metal and seal it up and forget about it, or get inner cab corners and make it like it wuz. (its already planned to be non standard with a 292, sony am/fm/cd, power seats (like a bit of comfort in me old age) etc.)

The inner debate for me is that as I am not that worried about it being perfecto, but trying to do the patch panels can be a real good learning experience, and on the other hand, I could just do a quick patch and be done with it. Picture:

http://home.attbi.com/~iarnstein/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-521022.html

What I have been toying with next is to go nuts and do one of those COE type conversions. I mean, with guy things, bigger is better, right? Big Chevy dually pickemup diesel. Always wanted one but don't want to spend the money (big status object here in Texas - Cowboy Caddillac) wouldn't it be more fun to take like a White 3000 tractor or a Diamond Comet and make a big honking pickup out of that.

Of course I have also gone for the wierd and my friends question my sanity. I painted my harley black with 3" yellow polka dots, and I drive a Suzuki Wankel powered bike. And I just sold my whipple charged MkVII. I just like weird stuff! (email for pix)

THERE I SAID IT. I CONFESS, I AM A LOONEY!

Let he who is without an old truck in pieces be the first to toss the first con-rod..... (double looney) :rolleyes:

Cut the patch panel to what you need, unless it makes the seams easier to fill by cutting the truck to fit the panel. I cut my cab corner patches to fit the truck; I cut the truck cowl panels to match the replacements. I made my own inner cab corners - wasn't hard, never shows.
From your pics, the cheap cab corners won't cover everything you've cut away (they don't extend far enough inboard). You'll have to make your own extension patch panels. I've heard there are better cab corners available but I haven't seen them in person.
I flanged all my patch panels then read here that the extra thickness of the lap joint may show when the truck is out in the sun, due to differing expansion characteristics. Better to butt joint, but harder to do.

Thanks Chaz.

I think the patch panels will go far enough inboard. At worse I would have to add a little inner extension to shore up the messy bit.

On your inners, did you just get some sheet steel make what you needed? I.e. just enough to join to the outers from the what was left of the inner?

Yes I just used the heaviest(20ga? 18ga?) sheets from the hardware store. Only had to make the bottom half of the inner. Curved it, notched and made a lip, and welded it in. Covered it all with a good coat of Duraglass to help waterproof the joint.

Suzi-Rotary? I had one once, spent $100 on a new battery, $60 or so for the manual, got it to run some by kick starting till my leg was hurtin' bad. Never got it right, started on the 4 cable carb to set-up, got dissappointed real fast, sold it and parts bike to another "dreamer". It even had the early odd dash and stuff. I made the changes listed in manual to one points set and some other stuff. Never did get to ride it.

Anyway, back to patches. I understand you should just cut enough orig metal to get to clean and cut patch to match. On the flanger, I've wanted one, but most guys say that just makes another seam for rust to start at. If you butt joint, Harbor Freight and Eastwood have these little butt joint clamps to align metal with a small crack for welding and allows you to take out later. Also, they have "Clecos" used in rivet like holes to temp hold the metal if overlapped. They are neato. Need the pliers to put them in. Aviation fellas use those. Inner panels I've seen dont look like much, you should be able to make something there. If you dont, the new corner becomes a "scoop" for cold air in winter, I KNOW!

On that nibbler, those darn little bits get stuck in your shoes and clothes and go all-over! They do work for tight/clean spots though. I usually cut over a garbage can if loose peice. I'm thinking one of those Sawzall looking Air body saws is the better answer for cutting out old metal.

There's an article in Truck Builder I have about doing cab corners. On a **** of course, the most worked on trucks in these darn mags it seems. Good pix and steps shown. Hard to find magazine as it's new. Might be last issue, not sure.
Good luck, at least your OUT THERE and working on it, not just sitten' round hating the cold like me! :p

Thanks grumps. I might look into those butt weld clips. With the lap joint, its easier, but yer supposed to body goo it to seal it. (as I wuz told)

Here is a link just for you:

http://www.rotaryrecycle.net/

Sam Costanzo is a great guy and has helped me get mine and keep mine going.

btw, chuck, nice web page, and excellent job on yer red truck. Very impressive. The more you do this stuff, the more you appreciate the work that goes into it.