The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline '53 half ton rear end

Now that I have finished the front end of the chassis, what would you guys in the know reccomend doing to the rear end. Thanks in advance. 1953 3100.

Do you mean what to do as far as:

- clean-up/appearance?
- standard rear-end/suspension?
- change in rear-end/suspension components?
- other?

Yes, we need a more detailed question. I changed out my gears for a 3.55 ratio, better top speed, yet keeping the stock look and torque tube.

Drain the fluid and check for metal shavings or chunks. Check for leaks at outer bearing seals. Check for excessive play in axles at outer bearings (leaky seals are often created by worn outer axle bearings). Check the large rubber bushings where the axle meets the leaf springs to make sure that they are sound. Remove the rear spring shackles and front spring pivot bolts and check for excessive wear. Inspect the torque ball and u-joint.

Sorry for lack of info, I was just wanting to make sure the rear end is in A-1 working condition. I think 52Carl covered what I had in mind. Are the outer bearings hard to replace? And the bushings where the axle meets the leaf springs..Are they available? Thanks.

1953 panel, was the change to 3.55 ratio a big improvement?

I actually never ran the truck with the stock gears. But it was a common complaint that they couldn't keep up to traffic. I can top out at 80 mph, cruises fine at 65-70.

The axle bearings are fairly easy to replace. The procedure is described in the shop manual (you will need a rear cover gasket, the bearing for each side, and a seal for each side. If the axle is worn where the seal rides on it, repair sleeves are available (Rockauto.com is one source).

Spring pivot bushings are available (Chevs of the 40s is one source).

3.55 compared to 4.11 rear end ratio is about a 16% improvement. Whether you changed the ratio to drive faster, or not, check out all parts and adjustments to the braking system.

HI! I am new here on planet Stovebolt. In regards to resealing the rearend cover, I have found that using the gray RTV/silicone from Permatex works great an lasts a long time. I have a 53 3/4 ton GMC PU. I had a massive leak on my rear end drive yoke years ago. If parked down hill you could watch the oil drip out of it. :(
I was lucky enough to have a guy from my ships weld shop build up the groove with stainless and then he had it surface fround for me. been non leaking since 1990!

years ago i was given a chrome bumper for my 53 GMC 3/4 ton pu. it slid right onto the outside of the frame rails like it was custom made for it. it came off off a 70 GMC 3/4 ton pu. (kindred spirits?)
based on this maybe a rear end from this vintage would be workable.
I just replaced the rearend in my wife's '94 'Burb. it is a 1/2 ton. the spring perches for the 'Burbs are fidderent from the trucks of that era. that being said, in '94 only they made a 6 lug 1/2 ton 14 bolt rear end for the 'Burbs as part of the tow packaage.

If you live in the Portland OR area there is an all GM yard called 205 Auto Salvage that has really nice parts. all late model but, if you are looking to upgrade your power train...

also try the filling station out of lebanon, or.
I live in vancouver wa and remember chev's of the '40's when they were in the basement/garage of the owner's house!

they just took over the old auto dealer (vacant for YEARS!) at the corner of HWY 99 and 78th street in Hazel Dell. looks nice. haven't been i yet.