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| | | Forums66 Topics128,014 Posts1,055,328 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 13 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 13 | can anyone gimme help meout on what to do with rusty 1/2 inch bolts on the front fender that just wont budge, ive put wd40 on em plenty of times and they still wont budge im not sure what else to do. I dont have any electric torque wrenches so thats not an option if anyones got any advise i could rely use it thanx. | | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 27 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2003 Posts: 27 | All the tool suppliers have these new type of sockets that look twisted on the inside but grab more you turn it. I've seen it with Snap-On, Matco, & Cornwell. I would assume Sears would probably have them by now. I've used mine a couple of times and they were great. They broke the bolt most of the time but I would not have reused it anyway. Good Luck
1954 Chevy 3100 235 2 Yamaha YSR50's 05 Silverado crew 00 Yamaha TT-R125 Supermoto
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 40 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 40 | If you can get to the nut or the female part , put some heat on it with a tourch (not the bolt) and when you get it hot enough it will swell up somewhat and breake the bond with the bolt .Remove the bolt while the nut is hot - its kinda touchy though because you don't want to get any of the sheetmetal hot and warp it . Also , don't catch anything on fire , have a helper handy with some water. A little heat does wonders sometimes ! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | For a lot of those bolts, it is just easier to break and replace. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | main trick w/ rust-stuck bolts is to sharply tighten a bit 1st, which is more likely to break the bond, then try loosen and if it works, then spray w/ yer favorite magic elixer and let it soak while ya go to the next - when all loose, go back and remove
Bill | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 | I've had pretty good luck with PB Blaster on bolts that WD-40 wouldn't touch. Let 'em soak overnight.
If that don't do it then heat the nut with the torch and out they come.
'38 Chevy 1-1/2 ton '49 Chevy 1/2 ton '54 Chevy 6400 2 ton '55.2 GMC 3/4 ton '56 GMC 1-ton
No Room Left in Shop
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 | Here is my "Basics of Basics" on removing rusted bolts. Bear, you don't want to try turning it when it is hot, the bolt is expanded at that time. If you cool it with water and heat the NUT, that will expand it and allow the bolt to come out easier. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>Removing rusted bolt basics One of the first jobs I ever had was at a shop doing full on restorations on vintage ***** (we specialized in model 40s 1933-34). By boss taught me MANY things I use every day. One of them was the best trick for getting rusted bolts out that I have ever tried. You need your torch with a small tip. Take the torch and make a perfect flame like you are going to weld. Heat the bolt head up till it starts to turn red. (If the bolt is already broken off you will need to saw a grove to use a flat blade screwdriver or have enough to grab with locking pliers) Then quickly cool it with a squirt bottle of water. Repeat, heat it, then cool it. Do this a number of times and the bolt WILL turn right out. If you can, heat the nut around the bolt on right before you try turning it out, BUT DON'T HEAT THE BOLT. This will expand the nut from around the bolt. I have did this on Model A door hinges, if you are not familiar with them, it is a 5/16 bolt with a little flat blade screw driver head! A ridiculous design that rusted in too tight to remove around 1950! You can imagine how hard they are to remove in 2000. I have did these with total success, only needing a regular hand screw driver about 99% of the time.
The way I figure the heating and cooling expands and contracts the screw breaking it loose from the rusts grip.
1948 Chevy Pickup Chopped and sectioned owned since 1974 when I was 15.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 | In the a/c business we use a product called Rustbuster,IT HAS A ZOOMSPOUT LIKE ELECTRIC MOTOR OIL,works good on rusty bolts. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Martinsr speaks well on this matter. My favorite option in bolts in sheet metal is to put a good wrench on the nut and the bolt, then twist, break and replace. Where that is not a good option, I find repeated applications of heat/cold water or heat and apply pariffin, which will seep into the threads. Also, the use of a good penetrant such as PBBlaster, Kroil, or CRC will help. Impact wrenches are a big help, too.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 198 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 198 | You can always try a nut Splitter if you have the room to work, works good for exhaust manifolds, chase the theads after, and no broken studs, else the blue wrench (cutting torch) fits alls sizes even metric... | | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 13 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 13 | hey guys thanx alot ill try out that heating cooling thing because wd 40 and other penatraters arent working and theres no room to take a wrench and break the bolt. Ill check it out and tell ya how it goes thanx alot | | |
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