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| | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 | Replaced the water pump on my 63 C-10 with original 230 to-day. Since I had the rad out and the grill off I thought i would clean out 50 years of Arizona dust and crud from the front of the engine . Now it is back together with a new fan belt . I have a sound now from the front like there is a bearing going. The sound doesn't get louder or faster when the engine is revved . Nothing is rubbing that I can see.The pulley on the crankshaft spins with out turning the crankshaft when I turn the fan by hand and is easy to turn. Could my cleaning (engine degreaser and soapy water with a lot of elbow grease) have done something or should I look to the new water pump.
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | "The pulley on the crankshaft spins with out turning the crankshaft when I turn the fan by hand"
sounds like a problem, isn't the crank pulley bolted to the balancer? so you're saying the balancer is loose on the crank nose? are you sure the lower pulley is turning rather than the belt slipping?
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 | The outer part of the pulley on the crank will spin around the inner part , I assume it is designed to do this but not so easily.Doesn't matter if the fan gets turned either way. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 402 | Not designed to do that. the pulley should be as one with the balancer and not spin without the engine on or off, sounds like you have a bad pulley, being a 6 cyl. 230 the grooves are part of the balancer(pulley), there a rubber insert that is to dampen the vibrations, if that is coming apart you have a problem. replace the balancer and do not drive it until you do fix it, the piece that is spinning can come off and go through your radiator. hope that helps. Dan
http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/baldybenny/library/ 1936 1.5 wrecker,1937 gmc coe,1939 Chevrolet coe,1942 4x4 coe, 1942 coe,1946 dump,1947 2 ton dump,another 1947 2 ton dump,1950 coe,1967 c30,1937 cat 22,1936 Chevrolet 5 window foremans coupe, 1914 ford speedster.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | without actually seeing it I would say you need a new damper. Most of them have the hub, and an inertia ring (the outer part) laminated together with rubber in between, and they need to basically be one piece. A harmonic damper may look simple, but most them have a lot of research put into them to make them work with the particular engine. Unless it is a externally balanced engine (the topic of another post presently) It provides no balancing, its sole purpose is to absorb the torsional pulses created by the forces of the pistons. (this is a complex subject, and this explanation was very abbreviated, and far from complete) if you are an inliner member the last 2 issues have a very good technical articles describing the function of a harmonic damper. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 | Perhaps the engine degreaser destroyed the old rubber enough to let it spin | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | Hydra1/2ton,
I don't think anything you did had much influence on the delamination unless you pried very hard on the balancer. It was most likely on the verge of failure and fortunately you were focused on that part of the engine and noticed. I would consider yourself lucky that you found the issue as you did.
Paul | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,481 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,481 | There are a few rebuilders who specialize in these. The prices vary, but generally are between $100 to $200.
Good luck. As previously mentioned, you don't want to drive it in this condition.
Jon
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 | I tried to turn it by hand again this morning just to make sure I wasn't seeing things . I was able to turn the crankshaft almost a quarter turn before it started free wheeling again. Thanks for all the help | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I don't know what is holding the damper together but it definitely will not stay that way. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 145 | Can't get a good angle to take pictures now the rad and grill are back on , guess I have problems both front and back as the rear main seal really leaks oil . Am going to do some testing on this engine and decide if it is time for a rebuild or replace.
Thanks again all | | |
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