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| | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,403 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 3 | I have a Chevy 53 3100 that I just converted to power steering with a bolt on kit. I'm now experiencing bump steer and in search of a way to correct it. My definition of bump steer is when I go over a bump the front wheels jump or turn] to the left.
Do you have any advice? Wheels are alined to spec. New king pins and bushings. Tighten all steering u joints in the new modification. Increased the pressure on the steering box. The steering box does not seem to have any adjustments.
thanks -john
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | What kind of steering box did you use? What about the drag link? Is the pitman arm parallel with the steering arm? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | More caster sometimes helps, which is achieved by shims. It mighty end up higher than spec but I don't worry about that more so how it drives. You could also Get a steering stabilizer, they can do a lot to reduce bump steer. They're available through Napa usually or through places like So Cal Speed Shop. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 3 | Classic Performance Products Power Steering For Early-To Mid '50s GM Trucks
yes the pitman is parallel
drag link installed correctly too
I would upload a pic but I don't see a way to do that
-john
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 3 | Thanks, We discussed castor but were unsure how many degrees to try and weather it would create other alignment problems
I found a stabilizer online http://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Steering-Stabilizer-Kit/productinfo/76%2D991/#.U4FmWsZv1uY
But still searching for installation info and weather it would help bump steer | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I don't quite understand because it is the drag link that needs to be horizontal, not the Pitman arm. I am not a power steering expert but strange things can happen if the gain or assist is too great. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 98 | The '54 is still an I beam axle right? You just replaced the steering box and all else is the same? You didn't lower it did you?
A shop is where you wash your hands before you pee.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | I switched out the 2° caster shims for a set of 4° shims which is supposed to work better with radial tires . It made a considerable improvement. I have far less wander on even the worse roads and bump stear is improved. Don't know if that will help with your power steering set-up | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 98 | I went to the site where you bought the stuff, they had a good tech on how to mount the pump but all else is vague. The drag link from pitman arm to the steering arn on the spindle has to be deadnuts level at ride height and as long as possible. can you show us a picture of what your looks like? That site didn't provide a picture 'as assembled'. If the draglink is running up or downhill you might be albe to correct by bending the steering arm or making some spacers, need more info.
A shop is where you wash your hands before you pee.
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