The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
8 members (Jims46, 2-Ton, Otto Skorzeny, tclederman, Bill Hanlon, Millenimech, dt235sd, greenie-reddy), 131 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,191
Posts1,057,365
Members48,469
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 291
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 291
I'm trying to bolt my engine (and entire truck) back together after having the engine rebuilt. It's a 1959 235 ci . My manifold was broken so I bought one from someone through the parts for sale on stovebolt. I completely cleaned and disassembled the two halves of the original style manifold but I noticed before taking it apart that the intake and exhaust ports were not in line very well. I anticipated that separating the two halves and having the two halves loosely put together while tightening the manifold to the head might help this trouble but after assembling and tightening from the inside outward on the bolts, the intake ports are fitting very tight and the exhaust ports need to be tighter since I can push a .015 feeler gauge into the exhaust ports without placing much effort to do so. Has anyone ever used two manifold gaskets on exhaust ports and one on the intake? Just wondering what to do besides spending a lot more money on this thing?


1950 Chevy 3100
In the DITY Gallery
In the Gallery Forum
77 International Scout ll
96 F-150 ext cab 4x4
2000 Tahoe
2011 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
If you take the manifolds off and lay a straight edge on the gasket surface chances are you will find that its warped. If so it doesn't usually cost to much to have the gasket area re-surfaced. Using multiple gaskets usually don't hold up well.

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45
Always make sure that both manifolds are bolted together when machining is done. This will correct a warped and out of plane issue, between the manifolds.

Joe


The older I get, I only want to work on older rigs.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,964
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,964
It is common for inliner manifolds to be warped. I just bite the bullet and take them to a machine and have them straightened on a belt sander. It saves a lot of headaches.

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,513
Milling is my preferred method and as long as warpage is 1/32" or less the exhaust manifold can be machined separately which is also much easier to clamp. See here. Belt sanding is hit and miss IMO.



1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
You Tube
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,964
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,964
I am a firm believer in having the intake and exhaust bolted together in their final position. I have been truing them as a unit on a belt sander for 50 years and haven't missed one yet. I have seen the intake and exhaust milled separately only to discover that the mating surface of the two manifolds was warped and the guy who spent money to have them milled separately still had leaks. I also have fears of milling 60 year old cast iron. I have seen it shatter.

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
My machinist made me take them back (an hour each way) and install them on the engine and secure them heat box then bring them back as Crenwelge says. I think he muttered something bout a waste of time otherwise. Hmm he'd been doing it for 50 years too...
It made sense when I thought about it.


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0