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I re-wired my '53 3/4-ton to 12 volt. It seems to me that there should be a better way to wire accessories that require a hot wire to the battery. I've added an AM/FM radio and a cigarette lighter. These all call for a hot lead and I wired them to the hot terminal on the ignition switch, but that puts about 4-5 wires to that one terminal. I'm thinking I could wire a juntion block like what is on the inner fender with a lead from the ignition terminal hot lead to that block and then wire those other accessory wires to that terminal block which would be mounted up under the dash. If there was a hot lead to that block from the ignition, then all of the terminals on the block should be hot, right? What's a better way to do this without having 4-5 wires to the hot lead on the ignition switch? I suppose a fuse block under the dash could be an option, but I'm not wanting to modify things that much from the original.

I like to add a fuse block under the dash. Put a wire to about half of them to the assesary side of the ign. switch & the others on the hot side. You can have a separate fuse for every circuit without a bunch of inline fuses hanging around.

i completely rewired my 52 from front to back

up front i have a power distribution block getting power from the big batt post on the starter solenoid
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/PIC00021-1.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/new%20wiring/PIC00028.jpg
it feeds the head light relays and gets fed from the alternator. it also feeds a second block on the firewall.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/new%20wiring/PIC00022.jpg
this block feeds the ignition switch for starting and the switched power accessories and feeds the fuse box (for constant power accessories) located under the dash.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/new%20wiring/PIC00026.jpg
I also have another smaller distribution block near the fuse box that feeds power to my door poppers.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/new%20wiring/PIC00417.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/new%20wiring/PIC00418.jpg

my wiring is in the working it out stages and i have many hours left of work, but its coming along


the power dist blocks in the engine compartment are found on many gm vehicles. i got mine off of a new s10 blazer(2000 or so) and a silverado(not sure of the year, maybe around 95). the other smaller block under the dash was found on a s10 blazer(older style-1st gen)

im also going to be using one of those smaller junction blocks to provide a good ground to all my accessories (ie gauges, radio, int lights and so on) under the dash. it will have a main wire that will be tied into my large batt cable that i have going from the - post on the battery to the bell housing.
i want to make sure every electrical part/accessory i have has a really good ground

Your ignition switch won't be rated for a lot more load than the original setup. On AD trucks, the factory instructions call for the radio to be connected on the supply side of the ignition switch. This is because the switch can't take the ignition, gauge, heater blower and the radio all at the same time. If you add that up, it isn't very much current.

I did it like wrenchbender. Added an inexpensive fuse block and ran the accessories off of the switch terminals. That way, when the switch is off, nothing that I've selected is getting voltage and each circuit is separately fused (like the heater fan).