The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline align torque tube?

I am trying to use a 3.90 gear torque tube I picked up but noticed some stuff:

First, the splined end of the propeller shaft is not centered in the torque tube, but is about a quarter inch to one side. Looking at Torque tube from above, it looks like the torque tube angles slightly off perpendicular from the axle.
Second - the front bushing seems to be pushed into the torque tube about an inch. It should be flush with the end of the torque tube, right?
Third, the trans that originally went with this torque tube had a cracked rear cover - bad sign?

Does this sound like a misaligned or bent torque tube? How do you measure to check? Can the angle be adjusted?
Can I tell without taking the differential and driveshaft out?

I've never seen a 3:90 in a torque tube. Do you know what it came out of? Depends on the year, some bushings are pinned in place.

It is from a 1954, so no pin. They switched to a 3.90 in a torque tube with the 235 for one year.

I looked at it again today. Looks like the torque tube is a little off of perpendicular to the differential casting. I got a 1" difference measuring from each backing plate to the front end of the torque tube.
Anybody have experience checking this measurement and adjusting torque tube angle?

3.90 was in the 54 1/2 ton torque tube, that is correct.
Sounds like something must of hit the torque tube.
With the front bushing pushed in, it should be flush wth end of torque tube.
And with that tranny rear cover cracked who knows what happened.
Call these GUYS They will tell you if its salvageable.

I think you would be best off to swap the 3.9 gear set over to your old 4.11 torque tube.

Thanks guys, though I was hoping to avoid pulling the pinion, etc. etc.
Also, my old 4.11 torque tube has its own problem. The front bushing was spinning in the torque tube, and was so loose it came out without a puller. Anybody seen that?

If you install an Okie bushing in your old torque tube I am quite sure it will fit tight. You can also pin it after installation for extra insurance it does not turn.

Update and new questions- I pulled out the differential, and removed the old torque tube bushings and seal with a 6 ft pipe.
1. both bushings and seal were trash, with small pieces of brass in the tube and banjo.
2. The rear bushing was worn into an egg- oval shape.
3. The propeller shaft is worn down about 1/16th at that rear bushing location.
4. the pinion-to-propeller shaft coupling rivet was broken in half and loose
5. The pinion was wiggly loose on its splines and came right off when the rivet fell out (no puller needed)
6. the gear teeth and bearings look ok, but have play and lash.

Could replacing the broken pinion coupling rivet and torque tube bushing solve the problem?
Or are the broken coupling rivet and bushing wear the effects of some accident or misalignment that has trashed everything else?

What needs measuring to see if the 3.90 setup is worth fixing? (yes, I can cannibalize just the 3:90 ring and pinion, or the whole assembly for my old diff, but they might be bad or mismatch?)

And does anybody know specs for the coupling rivet to source locally? Are there oversized ones/

No, if your talking about the perpendicular problem.
Yes,to stop the propeller shaft from being worn down.
I'm pretty sure the reason why the pinion-to-propeller
shaft coupling rivet was broken in half is because the
propeller shaft was floppy around because of the rear bushing was trashed.
This happens because the oil seal was leaking tranny gear lube
or the tranny was low on gear lube.
You can still use the propeller shaft because the Okie bushing
rear bushing will ride on a spot just ahead of the wore spot. Okie bushing Sleeve Assembly cross-section view Misaligned torque tube would not trashed everything.
The perpendicular problem is a different deal.
I guess it depends on how far it is misaligned.
Maybe at one time someone smacked into a curb
with the rear wheel while making a turn
and that shifted the axle over.
Sometimes its so misaligned that you can't bolt it up to the tranny.
If you can't straighten it out then its time to scrap it.
Bring it to a machine shop to find that out.5/16" diameter
I'm sure there are different sizes.

The way you described the axle and torque tube.
Sounds to me like its just plane wore out and it has been damaged.
If you can't get the torque tube 90 degrees from the axle plus or minus a couple of degrees.
If that is the case its time to throw in the towel.
The propeller shaft torque tube housing is riveted into the cast carrier housing and if those rivets are loose or
the rivet holes are elongated it would be not cost effective to repair. 1954 Torque tube
1954 Cherolet Specification packet

Great info, thanks.
It does look like the offset means the okie bushing should seal the propeller shaft ok.

I am a little concerned about if the gears and bearings are too sloppy. But it might be worth reassembling to try it out.

The perpendicular question is the one that I cant find any info on. There does seem to be a little fluid seeping from the gap between casting and tube. Will that seal with reassembly? I remeasured from the backing plate to the front end of the tube 71 3/4" on the left side and 73" on the right. But I dont know if that measure is supposed to be equal - the carrier casting is not symmetrical.

If it is leaking where the Left arrow is pointing the answer is No. It definitely should not be leaking there.
If it is leaking where the cast carrier housing bolts to the front of the axle housing the answer is Yes. With a new gasket. I think the only thing that matters is that the torque tube is at a 90 degree angle from the axle.
To do that you could use a large square or the 3, 4, 5 Rule

But if the torque tube is leaking where the Left arrow is pointing I would say its time to scrap it.
You should also read this Thread to gain more insight.

yep, there seems to be a very slight leak at the joint between the casting and the tube. Is there some kind of gasket or seal in there to replace?

No, The joint between the casting and the tube is sealed when they are riveted together.
I've never seen anyone ever try to repair that connection. Even if it is possible.

I have a customer that had the tube loosen up in the housing.
This is his daily driver and he did not want to change the torque tube at that time, so I got out my wire feed and ran a bead around the tube for the time being. That was about 5 years ago and it is still working.
If you have it apart though I would change the whole housing assembly.