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| | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 | So I had to drop the rear springs on my '49 frame to swap the shackle bushings so I could reverse the springs.
I go to put the springs back in and I can't get the springs into the eye bolt/front hanger. They're both partly in but I had to hammer on them hard to get them to start.
I'm sure I can keep hammering and get them set but won't these now just bind in the hanger? I'm worried if I keep hitting them a leaf will break. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | A picture would help so we could see the fit issue. Would a bit of judicious grinding on one surface or the other provide clearance? Since they have started it would seem just a slight adjustment may do the trick? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 | A picture would help so we could see the fit issue. Would a bit of judicious grinding on one surface or the other provide clearance? Since they have started it would seem just a slight adjustment may do the trick? Yeah, this is what I was thinking: grind just a bit off the non-threaded side of the hanger. The springs should be somewhat loose should they not? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | When I replaced mine they went right in with maybe a love tap or two from a ball peen hammer. Since they are close I would think a small bit of grinding would be the best course. You don't want to heat or do anything too drastic with forged or heat treated pieces. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 | When I replaced mine they went right in with maybe a love tap or two from a ball peen hammer. Since they are close I would think a small bit of grinding would be the best course. You don't want to heat or do anything too drastic with forged or heat treated pieces. That's my concern. When I hung them the first time (backwards) they did slip right in, and also out when I disassembled them. I'm pretty confused why it's a tight fit now. Maybe the metal expanded from the very cold winter to the tepid spring. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 255 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 255 | When I rebuilt the suspension on my 38, I had the same issue. I had to put the leaf pack in the spring perch first - then lift the spring into the shackle mount. It was much easier. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 |
I have also had to do what tcox describes.
"I had to put the leaf pack in the spring perch first - then lift the spring into the shackle mount."
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 | If the shackles are off by the smallest amount it will amplify at the other end. If you have done this just drop the shackle and try the solid mount first. Then lift like tcox said. Any misalignment will be taken up at the shackle with less effort. I did try several combinations of the shackle parts until I got the best fit. Might not be the best machine work on the new repop parts.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 367 | I ended up just taking off a tiny bit with a grinder on the spring. I mean a very little bit. Was still not an easy fit but they're in now. | | |
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