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| | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 10 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 10 | My dad just bought me a 62' c10 for gradation, and it worked great up until two weeks ago. At first I thought the battery died so I replaced it. The truck started and ran great for a week, but died again. I took the alternator in to have it tested and that works great as well. The truck wouldnt even crank over, or even make a clicking sound. I then purchased a rebuilt starter. The truck starts, however it does not stay on. As soon as I release the key it shuts off. Im completely stumped...maybe I need a new ignition?? I don't know too much about cars so if anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it. I really do not want to have to spend the money to get it towed to a shop and repaired.
62' c10
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 17 | Sounds like you have the starter wired wrong. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 10 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 10 | No thats not it. The starter worked before and the wires have never been touched
62' c10
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | adamsbomb,
Welcome to the Stovebolt. I think Gambitt hit the nail on the head. Your truck probably has a ballast resistor in line before the coil. The system provides full voltage to the coil during START, but when the key is released to the RUN position, power is routed through the resistor.
The typical "It starts, but won't run" scenario is a open, or broken resistor wire, but I think your wiring might have gotten flopped around when the starter was changed.
There are several small terminals on the solenoid, and each has a different function. The 'R' terminal passes voltage to the coil for START, but is dead for RUN. I'm not real familiar with your '62, but I think these wires are not where they belong. Does this sound like a possibility. Someone will be along soon with proper wire color and location...I hope!
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 10 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 10 | Well I understand what you mean, but the wires were barely touched. I made sure I hooked the wires up properly. I checked it 3 times already, but i'm going to go check it once more tomorrow morning. It definitely sounds like a possibility
62' c10
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | adamsbomb,
If there is a visible, white ceramic ballast resistor mounted somewhere, a check with a voltmeter on the side nearest the coil should indicate something on the order of 9 volts with the key turned ON. Cars of this era show a resistor wire as opposed to a ballast resistor, but regardless, the coil needs to see voltage when the key is turned to ON...the truck doesn't have to be running, but the key would be ON.
Good luck and keep us posted on this problem.
Stuart | | |
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