Thanks for linking to my old post, Gus. I haven't been on the forum much lately. Been working on my "new" '55 MG TF-1500. Still haven't sold the truck. No room in my garage for two collector cars plus my woodwork shop.
>> pierrem
ENGINE PAINTING ...
I showed the truck last weekend in an AACA club event. (The show was
not as good as johnsmith's show!) The engine still looks good, two years later. Getting some staining from oil leaks, but not much.
I used a number of degreasers and brushes to clean my engine. A dish brush and a toilet bowl brush work well. The engine must have all oil off, or the paint won't stick. Clean the frame parts and paint them, too.
A pressure washer is probably the best tool to remove grease and grime from the engine and frame. But the
Harbor Freight siphon engine cleaner works surprisingly well. Wand pressure can be regulated at the compressor. I used
Gunk S-C mixed with kerosene. I used the HF cleaner on my MG engine a few weeks ago. Cleaned right down to the bare metal ... I even got some flash rust is a few places, so I know that it was clean. Use the HF cleaner to rinse also. Water + a little Dawn detergent, followed by pure water.
Protect your distributor and starter with tape and plastic. Remove the generator. Remove or protect the voltage regulator and carb. Optionally, remove the distributor.
You will mask and repaint the engine and frame a number of times to cover up misses and overspray. And DavidF is right ... aluminum foil is easier to use and less messy than masking tape in some areas.
> Engine masked for paintingI used an old valve cover to protect the valve train while painting. I painted my "real" valve cover separately.
Remove and prep your valve cover and push rod covers. Prime and wet sand to perfection before shooting the top coat. My valve cover was pretty rough. No filler used. I blasted and sanded the bare metal (outside only). Then primed + sandable primer of a different color. Wet sanded until the first color of primer was visable. Will need to do multiple times.
If you want to do more than just shoot the engine, then here are some additional steps that you may want to do that don't take a lot more time ...
Remove the radiator. Easy to remove. Strip and paint it. I used lacquer thinner to remove paint from the brass top and bottom. Possibly some stripper on the steel side supports. This also provides space to remove the fan blade and to paint the front of the engine. I used rattle-can Rustoleum Black Semi-Gloss Automotive paint on the radiator and fan. I did not paint the fins of the radiator. Pulley etc are engine color. See list of paints in the link that DADS50 posted.
> Radiator stripped and ready for paintI made a spray booth from two 6-ft ladders and some plastic sheeting. Wear an approved respirator.
> Radiator spray booth frame> Radiator spray booth open> Radiator spray booth closed> Radiator paint dryingWhile you have the radiator out, check the water pump for signs of wear. Better to replace it now than later.
Strip and paint the air cleaner and voltage regulator cover. Lightly sand and paint the generator and starter. Tape the openings to prevent sand and paint from getting inside. Leave the ends of the generator bare aluminum.
Add to the new-truck look with the proper decals/tags for the valve cover, air cleaner, generator, and starter, new period appropriate radiator cap, hoses, clamps, and belt. Clean up your wiring, too.
Painting the engine and inner fenders was one of the best things that I did to improve the looks of my truck. Well worth the time.
- Lonnie
