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Joined: Jun 2011
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Is there any way to remove the windshield/back glass from your pickup yourself or is this job better left to a glass shop? I know dealing with old hardened dried up 50 year old windshield gasket is likely impossible to remove without breaking the glass but are there any tricks the do it yourselfer can do? Thanks...

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This subject is pretty popular lately.I just changed my windshield and I'm just a carpenter. Piece of cake.Getting the old one out is easy. Using a sharp knife,cut the rubber lip that covers the metal of the inside of the opening all the way around.The whole window should come right out with a gentle push. Go to tech tips and you'll see tips on how to reinstall it.---Jack

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Thanks, Sounds simple enough.

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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I'll bury the utility knife in to the rubber and run it along the glass. Keep cutting away rubber until enough is removed. You might have to use the blade on the inside of the window to break the seal of rubber against glass.

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New blade on a utility knife and start cutting away the way it has already been discussed. Be careful at the center where the two windshields come together. Don't press too hard there, as the metal division bar is fairly flimsy. Stout once the glass, gasket, and trim is installed, but take all that away and it can be bent fairly easily. May make re-installation more difficult.

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'Bolter
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All of the methods mentioned involve destroying the existing rubber strip.
My rubber is in like new condition and I'd like to reuse it. I want to pull all the glass for a re-paint / color change...
Any suggestions?


NHluvstruck...
1951 3100 5-window
https://stonefacegarage.wixsite.com/mysite
51 Chevy Restoration Page
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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well, you'll need to do some 'reverse engineering', would require folding the flap down on the inside so you could push the glass outwards, have someone sitting in the middle put pressure on the glass toward the top with their feet as you work away at the rubber, might salvage it

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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I haven't come across a way... I'd guess the frustration and risk of breaking the glass (and THAT bill) makes the replacement cost worth it.
Just a guess mind you.

If it was left unsealed in the 'new' gasket I can imagine a chance it would work but if it was glued you're screwed.


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Its really not worth the hassle to save the rubber, the chance of goofing up the paint or glass out weighs the cost of the new rubber. Saying nothing about the time spent trying to save it. Time is money even if you think mechanicing is fun, your time is still worth something. The cost of having a glass shop trying to save it is way more than the cost of a new seal.
Besides you can install them all by your self with no help.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/windows/glass_TF_install.html


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
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Red58 has the right idea. I've removed more than a few windows by prying the inner lip of rubber (if its not very flexible, forget it) soaking it with very soapy water and placing a shim of some sort between the metal and rubber (washers, wooden shims) every few inches to ready the glass to be pushed away. Lots of patience, soapy water and a partner on the outside. Once it starts to move away from the metal start working further away down the weatherstrip, 6-12". Its important that you move as much glass away at a time. Good luck.


Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin
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Would you start at the top or bottom of the window?


NHluvstruck...
1951 3100 5-window
https://stonefacegarage.wixsite.com/mysite
51 Chevy Restoration Page
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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"reverse engineer it", remove it in the reverse sequence it's installed, for which see your shop manual - if you haven't gotten one yet, see the 55 2nd series truck manual here

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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I've got a bag of popcorn and I want to watch! wink


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Originally Posted by red58
"reverse engineer it", remove it in the reverse sequence it's installed, for which see your shop manual - if you haven't gotten one yet, see the 55 2nd series truck manual here

Bill
Actually it's a first series...but I see the old manual project now has the correct manual too! Wasn't there last time I looked but the note there says new stuff just added- everyone should check it out!
FWIW the manual says to apply pressure to the outer pillar corners top and bottom alternately. Looks like a weekend project. I'll take pix and notes to share -good outcome or bad.


NHluvstruck...
1951 3100 5-window
https://stonefacegarage.wixsite.com/mysite
51 Chevy Restoration Page
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I'd suggest starting at top corner and working the top and sides out, leaving bottom for last. Also, it helps to have someone outside to apply light pressure to keep it from jumping out. Note the vertical crack in the drawing in the manual from the left side being in and the right out. John

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It's done!
All windows removed, none broken, all weatherstrip saved!
Thanks to you all (even CASO) for the encouragement to try...
How I did it:
1. Thought about it for about 3 weeks while I stripped everything else from the cab and waited for the shop monkeys to get back from college. Played the process over and over in my mind...
2. Loosened the weatherstrip inside and out with a yellow plastic "knife" from the tool assortment - see the photo.
3. Sprayed soapy water all along the top and down the pillar edge while prying the strip back.
4. The tools - see the photo - used two black plastic bicycle tire tools with the hook end, insert into upper corner, pry the strip down and hold with one palm against the glass.
5. Wedged myself in the door jamb and firmly pushed with both hands in the upper corner while the gloved helper prepared to grab hold.
6. As corner cleared, helper catches upper corner, I slide down to lower outer corner while applying pressure. Windshield eases out slowly.
7. While helper holds (but not pulls) continue applying pressure while evenly moving one hand top, other bottom, towards center of windshield and it comes right out.
8. Remove glass from weather strip, remove trim from weatherstrip (in that order) and repeat on other windshield.

My cab only had a small amount of rust in the corners, and the weatherstrip was still pliable, so it all worked out. Your results may vary...
Now here's the photolink:
Glass Removal


NHluvstruck...
1951 3100 5-window
https://stonefacegarage.wixsite.com/mysite
51 Chevy Restoration Page

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