The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Putting together a 235. Any help appreciated!

So I am about to rebuild my first car engine. I have done many old Harleys and am fairly mechanically inclined. I am having the engine done at the machine shop and I will do the assembly. The engine is a 1955 235. Are there any good articles on how to set up the main and rod bearings? Any other things to watch out for when assembling a 235? I've looked online and there are many different opinions. I've ordered a 1955 manual. Any help appreciated!

Jimmy,

Post the engine serial number (pressed into the block to the rear of where the distributor goes into the block).

That code will tell you if it a car engine (with hydraulic or mechanical lifters) or a truck engine. The code will also indicate if a truck engine is first series or second series. The 1955-1st and 1955-2nd series truck engine have different water pumps and blocks.

There is a 1955 Car Shop Manual. There is also a 1955-1st series Truck Shop Manual Supplement for use with the 1954 truck engine; and, there is a 1955 (2nd series) Truck Shop Manual. Which manual did you order (vendor and part number)?

The set up for the main/rod bearings are described in the Shop Manual.

I just got done reading a book called The Classic Chevy Truck Handbook by HP Books written by Jim Richardson. It mostly deals with the task force trucks. It has a great section on the 235. I have rebuilt my 56 235 and it brought back memories and I learned a few things that I should have done but did not do. Its a fairy small read but deals of stuff that will help the first time builder.

Something else to give some thought to is adding an HEI setup to the engine.. I did. Faster starts, Increased fuel mileage and also better low speed throttle response. But use 8 mm wire and gap the plugs at .045 or a little more and use a plug with a Platinum electrode. Just what it did for me on my stove bolt.
Normbc9

If it's going in an earlier vehicle than a '55 you will need to modify the water pump to fit the car. Also possibly motor mounts could need attention.
Best of luck

I hope that you disassembled it yourself. If there were shims involved, you need to know about that. Also, make sure you have the rods checked to make sure they are not bent.

Check this out.Engine Rebuild Article

An excellent reference Rusty.

That was an interesting article but very short on some details. I enjoy his writing but that article is no text book. For instance, I don't think he dealt with how to remove the pistons when a ridge is present. Also, the numbers for piston clearance seem incorrect.

Re: Richardson article.
Before removing the engine perform both a compression test (air gauge in the plug hole) and a leak-down test (air pressure into the plug hole) on each cylinder. Once the rockers are off it's impossible.
Never apply pressure to the outer ring of a damper. Hammering the inner hub should be done with the crank flange on the floor, or firmly against a substantial back-stop such as a steel door. Otherwise, you're hammering against the thrust bearing.
I'd replace any bearings with more than .003" clearance.

From the article: "If the pistons hang up on a ridge at the top of the cylinders you will need to obtain a ridge cutter or reamer, available from an automotive tool store. Adjust the cutter so it will only cut a little at a time, then squirt light oil onto its blades. Now turn the cutter in each bore until the cylinder ridge is removed. Wipe up any residue or shavings with a rag.