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Hey guys

I've been searching on how to change the timing on my chevy but i still dont really understand how i should do it.

3 years ago, the engine ran great. Then the starter drive broke, and it has been standing in my fathers garage since.

So now that im getting it ready for spring time to drive it, this is the last thing i've got to fix.

I can start the engine only by using start spray. I can keep it running on high RPM, but when i reduce the throttle it backfires with a loud bang and dies.

So my guess is that the timing has to be retarded? or should i advance it? anyways i dont know what way to turn the distributor. I want to use the trial and error method. Turn it a bit, try to start it. turn it bit, try to start it.

Points look good, and i've not been playing with them because it should be good.

But i can wiggle the distributor about 2 mm to both sides, and i can even turn it about 2 cm to the right but when i take of my hand it goes back to where it was. Is that how its supposed to be?

How and what do i loosen to change timing, and what should i do exactly?

My buddy was supposed to help me out but he wont have time until 2 weeks from now, so i want to give it a shot myself. because i really want to take her for a spin!

Thanks!

Oh by the way. I've never done anything with timing before. All i know about it now is what i've read the last 6 hours.

There is a much better method to set the initial timing than "trial and error", and it doesn't take any special equipment. There is a hole in the bellhousing just above the starter which has a pointer in the middle of it. On the front of the flywheel, there is a circular dot stamped that will be visible as it passes through the bellhousing window. It might be necessary to remove the lower flywheel cover and do a little cleaning or sanding to expose the timing dot, but it's there- - - -be persistent until you find it. Once the timing dot is visible, turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front until the dot is aligned with the pointer. Loosen the clamping screw that holds the vacuum advance to the distributor housing enough that the housing will turn with just a little effort. Remove the distributor cap and watch the points while you turn the housing clockwise from the top until the points are closed. Turn the housing back counterclockwise until the points are barely open. Lock the housing clamp screw down and reinstall the distributor cap. The initial timing is set. If you need to advance the timing a little more for smooth running, loosen the clamp a little and turn CCW for earlier timing. Careful- - - -a very small movement makes a big change in the timing.
Jerry

Allright, that sounds like its doable for me! Although I've changed the flywheel and am not sure if I installed it the same way as it was from the beginning, so that might be a problem? Or is there only one way it fits?

It only fits one way.

That's good, the dot, is it embossed or how does it look?

...pic. Dot painted white...

...Pic pointer and dot painted white...

allright thanks (i guess there no big diffrence between the 6v and 12v flywheel?)

No difference on the "dot" by the way most call it a BB. There are differences between the 6 volt flywheel and the 12 volt flywheel but as long as the starter is matched you should be just fine.

If you are using starter fluid to get it started you have a fuel problem not a timing problem. Just from sitting and not running the timing will not change, But the fuel system can get clogged up. I would take the carb apart and clean it before I would fool with the timing.

i only found a triangle, but i guess thats because it isnt the original rim?

Allright TOmmy, I'll do that too! But it smells fuel, and when the engine runs on high RPM it stays on that consistent RPM.


f#*k! the little round contact point fell off the arm.. I guess i'll have to order a new one..?

anyway when i looked at it before i lost it, it was already on the closest point when i aligned the triangle on the flywheel with the marker on the bellhousing... Ordered new contact set anyways..


I guess that was the problem them?

Yes, if the contact fell off, that's a very good reason for rough running. Check the flywheel again- - - - -I think the triangle is used for valve adjustment, not necessarily ignition timing. It will be close, but not entirely accurate for setting the ignition. There should be a ball, or a dot somewhere nearby.
Jerry

I am with Tommy on this one, the carb IS GUMMED UP and NEEDS to be removed and taken apart to clean all the stinky green stuff out of ALL passages and jets, also you HAVE to drain the fuel tank and flush out the fuel lines from the tank to the carb and put in new fuel. To flush the fuel lines with the carb off, first remove the spark plugs to make the motor turn over easier( 2 man job) hold a catch can under the fuel line at the carb and have your helper turn the motor over (about 20 seconds at a time WITH THE IGNITION OFF) until you have good clean fuel coming out.

allright i'll check for the dot again. and yes i'll clean the carb and change the gas! I hope that works. But still i've got to wait a week until i get my parts from the USA..

The triangle is Top Dead Center on #1 That is useful when setting valves. The dot/BB is just a bit before it as you turn the flywheel. Any way both will get you started. The points, well I have had that happen. New ones will get you back to starting again. The dizzy is clamped in place and is easy to adjust when you can get to that step. Keep us posted and let us know how you are doing.

Yepp, Ofcourse ill share all the updates with you, I'll continue cleaning the carb in the weekend, and hopefully i'll get the points at tuesday..!

So i've been working on that. Found the dot. Lined it up perfectly, set the timing point to 0.002". Cleaned the carb, and changed the gas. But now i dont have a spark. So my guess is that the ign. coil is broken again. But why?

Buddy of mine will probably come and look at it today.. maybe i'll order a new coil anyway.

The setting for the points is.016-.019 not.002. that is why you have no spark, set the points correctly and it will work.

i ment 0.022, wrote it wrong. Just as it says on this page..:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm1227.htm

should i ajust them to .018 anyways?

set them at .018 thats fine. check the wire from the coil to the dist. , where it goes through the side od the dist. There is an insulator block on the dist housing, sometimes these things may crack or break and the wire will them be grounded and you have no spark.

If you can get one. Find a "tach and dwell" meter. They are not expensive. I got mine from Sears. It will tell you if the point gap is good with the dwell angle and is handy to set idle speed from outside where you are trying to make the adjustments. More important to what is messing with you at this time...if the connections are bad or the condenser it will read all over the place. Good luck and keep us posted.

Im a bit busy right now with gardening (why did i move to this place with the huuuugggee garden?!) So i'll try to find some time this week and keep you guys updated! Thanks for the Tips

Alright.. Damnit!
Me and my buddy tried to fix the ignition today. No spark still.

Timing is set.
New coil.
New condenser.
Cleaned all contact points.
There is current thru the coil, to the condenser and thru the points.
Its grounded the right way.
Rotor looks good. contact points in distrub.cap are clean. Inside is clean. everything is supposed to work, but there is no spark. We tested with 4 coils and 2 consensers.

Im going to order new cables from diss to plugs and from coil to diss. Also new spark plugs. (Does anyone know which i should have, and where to find them on ebay? it says r45 on those which are in now.)

Is there anything more i could try to get a spark?

I did get a spark before i set the timing, but now its just hopeless, i dont know what to do anymore.

becuase i dont know which to buy i'd appriciate it if someone could help me find the right sparkplugs and sparkplugwire set on ebay..

EDIT: Found some, ordered them. ordered a new cap and rotor too, even though im quite sure that is not the problem-.

Still need help figuring out the no spark problem..

Once you change that stuff out, let us know if you still have a problem. Its 12v so I assume you have a 12v resistor coil (if no resistor on the firewall). The small wires on the coil are + to battery (positive) and the - side goes to the dist. Sometimes its something easy. Make sure your ground strap is clean and properly set.

Make sure rotor is contacting the coil wire contact on the inside of the distributor cap. I once had that very same problem. My problem was caused by a smart adz mechanic friend who thought it would be funny if he removed my rotor button while I wasn't looking. When it wouldn't start right up like it normally does, I pulled the distributor cap to check for fire through the points and noticed the rotor button was gone! I knew right away who the culprit was, and he was impressed how quickly I figured it out. I never paid him back for that one, but I'll bet he is still looking over his shoulder, waiting for it.
Carl

How are you determining there is no spark? Voltmeter at the spark plug end, trying for an arc by holding it a 1/4" or so from a grounding point? or...

Dennis

Deve:
Yes the ign. coil is right, wires are conected right too.. It all worked before i played with the timing but it was backfiring and hard to start.

52Carl:
The rotor conectionplate is clean and when i put on the cap it feels like its makeing good contact.

DennisM:
Yeah unscrewing the plug from the engine, holding it close to ground, no spark. Same way i tested for some weeks ago before i started playing with the timing and ten a nice blue spark jumped over.

I really dont understand whats wrong.. Maybe i should use a voltmeter on the sparkplug? just to see if some current is going comeing to the plug? How do i use it then?

One step at a time:
1, Point gap 0.018 set with the rubbing block on the high point of the cam on the dizzy.
2, Timing set with the BB on the pointer and #1 valves closed.
3, Firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4, clockwise on the cap.
4, 1 on the dizzy is at about 5:00 O-Clock. Points just open at that position.
5, Correct polarity at coil, + is from ignition switch. - is to the points. If 12 volt then a resistor in line.
6, Good ground strap.
With all parts set and voltage at the coil it should fire and run. A hint if all else is good, open points with a bit of card stock, measure - post on coil to ground should be open. If not the post that the wire is attached to the dizzy may be shorting and you will have no spark.
One step at a time and you will find it.

One step at a time:
1, Point gap 0.018 set with the rubbing block on the high point of the cam on the dizzy.
Point gap is set 0.018 as discribed in the manual yes, I don't know what you mean with the rubbing block and the high cam on dizzy? What's that?

2, Timing set with the BB on the pointer and #1 valves closed.
Yes

3, Firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4, clockwise on the cap.
Yes
4, 1 on the dizzy is at about 5:00 O-Clock. Points just open at that position.
Yes

5, Correct polarity at coil, + is from ignition switch. - is to the points. If 12 volt then a resistor in line.
Yes except that there is no resistor? There has never been a resistor..?

6, Good ground strap.
Yes.,


Timing is set like this:
Turned the flywheel so the dot is lined up with the pointer.
Turned the dizzy until points max open
Adjusted the points to 0.018"
Locked it in position.
Is that the right way?

From ign switch there's a wire to the + side of the coil.
From the - side of the coil there's a wire to the dizzy that connects to the condenser and the points
From the other side if the dizzy there's a wire going to good ground.

New coil
New condenser
New points
Clean contact points.
Rotor is in good shape.
Current is coming thru the coil and thru the points.
What am I missing?

Do I need a resistor? Pics? eBay link? I've never had any before..

From the other side of the dizzy there's a wire going to good ground.

Don't know what that wire is . Have never seen that before. What is it grounding? the dist body?

I would disconnect that extra ground wire and try to start the engine.

I don't know, it has just always been like that.. So i suppose it has to be that way? Look at this picture, it is connected the same way now as it was then (3 years ago when she still ran great)
http://www.garaget.org/?car=194014&image=1807965
or
http://www1.garaget.org/archive/139/138109/194014/194014-1807965.jpg

(the yellow wire closest to the bottom of the picture, follow it from the dist. to the coil mount)

If it was mine I would make sure that the points are closing. Then I would turn the motor until the points were fully open, then adjust them. The I would disconnect the wire that goes to the coil "+" terminal. Take a test lead and go from the battery "+" post to the coil "+" terminal. Crank the engine and see if there is spark.

The points are adjusted. also i've got 12.5 Volts coming to the coil from the ign switch, but i can try take power directly from the battery.

More tips and tricks are more than welcome so i can try everything tomorrow

" I don't know what you mean with the rubbing block and the high cam on dizzy?"
Just the place where the points are pushed wide open by the dizzy.
Here is a picture, Thanks Dads50

https://picasaweb.google.com/gv50chevy/CarterYf#5638500412780323666

Look close at the rubbing block (part touching the shaft,cam) it is on the low part of the "cam". Adjust with it on the high point of the "cam"
Some times the points need to have a coating cleaned from the contacts. It is used to keep them from corroding in storage by some manufactures.
Also in the picture you can see the insulator at the side of the dizzy that the spring from the points rests on. Make sure that is good and clean. If that spring touches the dizzy case you will have no spark.
I might be tempted to undo that yellow wire from the bottom of the dizzy. Test and see if any thing changes. You can put it back if nothing changes.

I've not tested the tips you guys gave me but i did a quick inspection on the cap, the black coal thing that makes contact with the rotor is fixed. Isnt it suposed to resilient (springy) or is it only the rotor part that has to be resilient? Because then im almost sure that might be the problem.

the spring from the points dont touch the dist. case, and the contacts inside are clean. both the points and the contacts on the spring itself.

I'll wait for my new parts to arrive (hopefully on friday) and then i'll put more new stuff in, check all contacts and remove the ground cable.

Thanks for all the help so far, i'll keep you guys updated ofcourse!