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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 69
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 69
It's time to get the glass put in the '56 3100, small back window. I have done many searches , videos, etc and am still confused. I have talked to several glass people in the area and they are way out of my price range to do it...2-3 hundred dollars for what...1 hour of work when I supply all the stuff, so I guess I need to try it myself..I just ordered the gasket and am confused if I put the gasket in the truck and then the window or put the glass on the window and install into the truck. I see it both ways on the search. I have seen the thing about the rope and I figure on getting some popsicle stickle sticks and stuff, have friends that can help but I need advice, tips, tricks and probably some help....TIA

Joined: Jun 2012
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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
Put the "gasket" on the glass. Put a cord in the groove that sets on the sheet metal. Place the whole thing on the truck. Get the rubber as lubed up as you can, you will wash that off later. Push into place as well as you can. When you pull the cord or string the rubber gasket will walk up and over the sheet metal setting the glass in place. Go slow and take your time. It is not as hard as you think. Try it and you will have a new skill.


Steve H
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 252
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Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 252
I used the cord method as well and the glass popped right in when I got to the last few inches. Use lots of lube and go slowly. Use some venetian blind cord that I had and it was the perfect size.


1951 Chevy 3100 5-Window
"Howard"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Joined: Jun 2012
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I sure hope to get this done soon without busting something. I have named the truck Murphy since if it's possible to go wrong....It will. Thanks again to all that responded

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 209
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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The windshield is a rope-in, the backglass will need the rubber on the body, then install glass and lock strip.

Joined: Jan 2013
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O
Shop Shark
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Use lots of Dawn and pick a warm sunny day to do it outside. The hotter the rubber is, the better it works.


57 GMC LCF 370
55 John Deere 40-W
59 John Deere 430-W
2000 GMC 4x4
56 John Deere 420-W
Pix on Photobucket
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 434
R
Shop Shark
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I have seen folks use a hook tool to help pull the rubber over the metal. Like a tool to pull cotter pins. Amazon has them in CRL brand. Also thin plastic push sticks to push rubber in place.

I have not done mine but plan to when I get there. We had my son's 66 done by "pros" and decided we could do them ourselves with good rubber (Steeles), some of these tools, and patience. He ended up helping them do his so now he is my "expert adviser ".


R-Bo

1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
Joined: Aug 2010
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'Bolter
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It helps to have two people. One inside one outside. also buy some little plastic pry bars HF has them and so do some hardware stores. For the rear glass fitting over a flange put the rubber on the truck first. The one thing Super Glue, Eastman 910, Isocyanurate (SP)does work on is gluing the ends of the rubber together. Steele told me the orange hand cleaner without grit in it works real well as a lube.

Joined: Jan 2013
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O
Shop Shark
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The plastic pry bars are called "bones" in the body shop industry. My son has a big body shop, so I had expert help with mine. Those things may really made out of bone?


57 GMC LCF 370
55 John Deere 40-W
59 John Deere 430-W
2000 GMC 4x4
56 John Deere 420-W
Pix on Photobucket
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
Terry - good man for trying to figure this out and save some dollars for rest of the truck. Hang in there with Murphy and let us know how the window install turns out.


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Murphy, darn wish I had thought of that...none of the names I called my truck can be used out side of my garage.


Steve H
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Wrench Fetcher
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So, Let me see if I have this right. The rubber goes on the windshield and then gets put in the truck...The rear rubber goes in to the truck and the glass gets put into that Right?....no wonder I'm confused.I plan on using this tire-soap stuff. It is a purple liquid that is kinda thick and slicker than snot...I think it should work good, or at least I hope it will. Gotta get some friends here to help with this. One more ?...I ordered the rubber but it isn't here yet. Is this a one piece thing or is it a strip that has to be joined...If it has to be joined, does the seam go at the top or the bottom?...Thanks for all the help so far

Joined: Mar 2005
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'Bolter
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Posts: 209
Terry. GM put the seam on the backglass and qtr. glass gaskets at the top. The lock strip butts at the bottom. Cut the gasket about a 1/4" long and wedge/spring in with a dab of super glue or black RTV in the joint. That said, I was taught to put the seam at the bottom when I started in the glass business 40 years ago. That helps keep the top on while installing. The hook tool mentioned can also be found at Sears as a cotter pin or radiator hose tool. Round the point slightly with a file or grinder, otherwise it will dig in and tear the rubber. Hope this helps. John


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