The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '64 2-ton for blasting business (dustlessblasting.com)

Hey, guys n gals, I'm back and finally got my blaster and compressor up and running and decided to use the big truck for a rolling advertisement.

I pulled the bed off (what was left -framing- is up for sale.. and rewired the starting harness, pulled the carb and made one good one from 3. Then found out that I really didn't study the linkage to get it back to the peddle correctly. I should have it all linked up this week.
SO, the idea was to blast the D/S of the truck and resto-mod the truck and make it a kind of rolling advertisement of what can be done with my blaster.
It's a DUSTLESSBLASTING.COM unit DB500. It gives me about 40min of blast time and will be mounted on back, along with a water tank and the crushed glass media.

I'm kinda behind in what I've wanted to do and will be getting new glass and weatherstripping. I didn't have time to get the windows covered and blasted away. It really did't pepper the glass unless I got really close, unlike sand.
The blasting tank holds 20gal of water and 200lbs of glass, along with 28oz of a rust preventative hold-tight 102. To stop flashrust for a few hours.. They say about 36hrs but not for me.. Got a little the next morning.
Then shot some Tractor supply grey primer (oil based) and will be shooting the cream yellow tomorrow or Tues.
At about $50 bucks for a gal, it was WELL WORTH IT!!
Went on ultra smooth, didn't fish-eye and actually has a satin finish.
I'm NOT making a show truck out of it, just a statement. SO, I didn't fill in any dents or bondo anything. Just blasted and primed. It only took me about 30-45min to blast that side!!

I'll do a quick wet sand with soapy water and some 400 and let that dry and then the color for the cab.
Here's some pics and will be chugging along with this thread.

OH, and Thank you Grigg for your help.
I wasn't trying to sound arrogant, just trying to learn as much as i can.. sorry if I came across that way.

Luckily the hydrovac setup looks to have been rebuilt at some point not too long ago. Just needs new hoses, which might open the proverbial can of worms since the bleeders and lines don't want to move AT ALL without twisting the lines..

I REALLY wanted to convert to a '94 budget rental truck's axles f/r and hydrOboost to have 4whl discs and eventually a pair of Alcoa's and SUPER wides in the rear. Kinda giving it some attitude.

Errol

No one yet?

Well, I pulled the hydroboost from a GM school bus and power steering wheel, column, box and most all the lines in the front.
Even got the big mirror..

Hopefully be getting the front axle from the budget truck later next week. I just hope the tapers from the pit-man arm going to the wheel arm fit each other.

Oh well, be back in a few.
E

Had to upgrade to 'premium' to get my pics on here.

Here's some pics of the '64.
I'll be getting a flatbed for it next week (hard thing is, if I can find someone to haul it to the house..)
Errol

http://imageshack.com/a/img836/7772/6989.jpg



http://imageshack.com/a/img827/983/ovuq.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img824/4493/06xs.jpg

Got a guy coming out tomorrow to install a new windshield!!
Purchased an old truck gas tank that was full of crap.
returned it for two matching NICE Diesel tanks. I'll make some framing/straps to hold where I want it.
Then a newer d/s door, (a local pull it got a nice one in) sand it down a little and shoot the final color along with a couple coats of clear once it warms up some..

The 'yard' that I was getting the later axles from just got in a late model diesel fed-ex truck and might swap those axles in instead.. Hhhmmm.
Now if it would stop raining for a couple weeks I'd get some stuff moved around and start crossing off things to do.

E

Hi,Erroll! Welcome to the "Bolt"! Just wondering why you would prime the frame,then paint it brown? To each his own,but it looks too much like rust,especially from a distance. It'll look even better,with the frame-mounted tanks! It looks GOOD,now! Please keep us posted on your progress! THANKS for sharing!!

...? paint it brown?

I didn't. I blasted just the drivers side and primered it. I'm not done yet with the paint. The D/S will be a creamed corn color and the frame will be a darker than Battle-ship gray.
I'm using it as a rolling testament of what can be done with my blasting system.

Hoping to get a buddy to bring the 14' flatbed home here tomorrow. Hopefully will be getting the rear axle in the next couple of weeks.
The windshield got installed in about 1.5hrs by Gentry Glass here in the Memphis area. I cut the old glass out and he ordered a new seal and glass and installed it for about 285.00 and came to MY PLACE!!

A new coat of paint really makes a difference! Hope the BEST for your business! Your truck will surely help the cause!

I've found a few later model trucks (early-late 70s) just parked not too far from me and one friend had a mid-70's that runs propane that only has like 60K on it and just dusty.. The inside cab barely has french fries, soda bottles and 'stuff' stuck to the floor!! Really clean. It's like a hay truck I think.

I was thinkin.. For a little more power I have a '62, .060 283 that I built up w/Vortech heads/intake/ex268 cam that I wanted to put infront of a 545 Allison. Got all excited and crawled under there and thought "I'll just unbolt the trans craddle and".... Wait a min. They didn't offer an auto in '64 so the trans crossmember is riveted in! (don't know if any of you have tried to get 50+yr old rivets out, BUT it aint fun)
So, the engine swap might be later this summer when the ground isn't soo muddy. The reason is I really don't want to be shifting in this truck in Memphis traffic. (almost as bad as driving in Orlando)
I figured that with the rear ratio spinnin at 35-4500rpms, it would be more fuel efficient with a 283 than a 430hp 406.
Just got a small primary'd holley spread-bore that should be ready when I drop it in.

A while back there was a storm abrewin, and just lightly closed the hood to wait for it to blow over.
Came out the next day and the storm must have flipped the hood back and forth a good while bending the inner structure away from the outer skin about 2".. So, now it's a little harder to get it to close.

I'll try and get pics of the nice windshield job!

E

These are the tanks that I ended up getting.
Pretty sweet I think..
http://imageshack.com/a/img842/3864/2gxb.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img836/6308/c6ps.jpg

Got the orig door taken down and man, this must be original mileage! The window 'guts' was alot cleaner than 60yr old parts.
Just have to weld the other end holding the door stop back in the jamb.

Here's the bed that will be going on back.
Lots heavier than I/we thought.
http://imageshack.com/a/img824/4493/06xs.jpg

E

Walked out onto a pull-it yard and almost fell over..
A '00 Chevy HD3500 with 10 bolt, Dana80 and 1ton front solid axle..
Got them with HD radiator (and of course all the fasteners and such) for under 370.00!!
I'll post pics/links later today but now I'll have 19.5's, 4wheel discs and hydro boost.

Yeehaw!!
E

Just noticed this thread, nice truck! The rack for the back is a big chunk of steel just how I like them. I've read plenty about the dustless system and I espcially like how the water cools to keep down any potential warping etc. Btw, that hd radiator was worth $300 right off the bat, you made a fine deal there. I agree on the 283 as I always keep an eye on fuel economy these days.

Don't want to thread-jack myself but.. Just did a '50 Chevy coupe and turned out very nice. BUT, the early morning dew did leave small rust spots which I wasn't too happy about. Should've covered it up, but had a fan drying the inside out over night.

I'm torn between blasting the R-side of the truck also or just leaving it.
Also, thinking of using a Chevy 406 that I've had built about 20yrs ago (sitting in plastic) with that Alison. (might even be able to spin those Super Singles without that bed on. With that granny-low that 400+hp should do it)
OR, use the 4L80e, but then to rebuild it, Converter and a shift controller would be OVER 1K$$$

IF anyone sees a link or knows of someone who makes adapters for the 1+ton, 10-lug to Semi-10-lug let me know or post links.
OH yeah I've found some but @ 5-600$ each is just plain goofy..

E

nice find on the axles. I put a 2001 HD3500 rear in my bus. It too is a Dana 80 withe the 10 lug pattern with discs. I'll do the spindle swap that Grigg made in the tech section to change over to discs in the front. Nice truck and progress.

Nice truck you're building there! Please let us know how the rear differential swap goes, I'll be doing that myself soon in my 1966 C60.

Iron, I finally got some time to pull the stock rear.
What a PAIN.. Couldn't find a 1 1/8 deep socket (and didn't want to buy one either) so after days of soaking with Kroil and PB blaster, i got a small pipe wrench and breaker bar and tried to bust loose /crack the big nuts.
I actually did have a socket but wasn't deep enough
And had to pull all 8 with the pipe wrench..
got it down and went to loosen the flex brake line and THOUGHT it was turning but ended up twisting the little pipe and busting it..
I was just so happy that I was able to pull all 8 nuts of that I really didn't get all that mad about the line.
rolled the rear out from under it and rolled the Dana 80 back in, but started to loose light and had to make a run with the kids so it's just resting on the axle.

It LOOKS like the spring pack bolts are in the holes in the perches but couldn't see. (it was kinda scary to stick a finger inbetween to feel and didn't want to loose ANY appendages)

I'll try and get some pics tomorrow, but it's really close.

I'm leaving the orig springs and will see how they 'do' after I get it road worthy and driving.

Later: Errol

forgot I DID have a couple pics.
It's been sitting for a while, the weeds are growing tall..

http://imageshack.com/a/img673/3880/sUuP6n.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img901/6858/M3dEut.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img673/3724/HPO0Ip.jpg

I'm gonna have to cut some of the frame off at rear for the bed I'm putting on. It's got a support structure for the hitch that I really don't want to cut instead.
You can see some of it in this pic:

http://imageshack.com/a/img824/4493/06xs.jpg
E

Well, I got the rear in, just drilled the locating holes larger to 13/16ths but pinion angle is way too high. Just a wedge should take care of it. And had to grind the spring perch sides to use the stock stock U-bolts. Not much, just a 1/8 or so on each side.

By looking at it, the drive shaft just might be closer than I originally thought.
Also, was able to drop the front end and got a sinkin feeling by staring at the front center-link.. Very different than the '64's.

Sure is nice to have a big front end loader to move things instead of pushing..

Here's some pics
http://imageshack.com/a/img743/9083/vXZLs4.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img745/5134/6WgsGC.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img537/1584/UWDRTy.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img909/7010/yfEi9N.jpg

I used to be able to post pics directly but since I had my PC worked on and upgraded with Imageshack, It seems that all I can give is a link.

E

Great project.....I bought one of those dustless blasters also (DB150). They are located about 20 miles from where I live. I blasted my whole 55 2nd series truck with it.

What do the units cost? Looks like you will need one heck of a compressor to run it, likely a rental. How long did it take to blast your truck?

The small DB150 was $5000 then I bought a $1000 trailer mounted air compressor to run it. I priced the DB500 originally mounted on a trailer with a water tank and air compressor....basically a fully self contained setup...and it was $35k.

You can get into it for FAR LESS than that if you just piece it together. (or if you're just resourceful or have some connections)

I found a low hour Ingersoll Rand-185 for DIRT CHEAP at almost 3500 (about 2-3000 cheaper than others I saw around me) If you're gonna look for one, you BETTER have some cash in hand and NOT be a poser...
On a side note: The compressors, although "SAY" 185, it doesn't mean that they can run pumping 185psi at length.. It's more like 100-110psi continually, or you can burn up your pump. To which they DON'T sell off the shelf. You have to find a supplier that work on EXCHANGE BASIS.. NOW, you're dead in the water and you have to go find or rent a compressor. Depending on time of day and they're inventory, you may have lost a job or got bad 'feedback'..

The Unit itself was almost 12,000. and the truck was 1750.00 (bed was 750) Newer axles were about 250.
Found a HD, custom trailer(2-4700# axles, double stacked 2x4 heavy wall, 2 5/16 ball hitch) that can be used for most anything that I would want for 1000.
500gal Water tank- 50.00 (from a buddy) 25' HP hose from compressor to unit 200+change
OH, they don't tell you that there are just a few companies that sell recycled crushed glass. The best I've found for me is ESCA in PA. 50# bags for apprx 7-9$/bag depending on the size grit.

I've had some money saved up from retirement and ironically used it to go ...'back to work'..
If you can't handle lugging around a 1 1/4", 50ft hose blasting out at 120+psi, you're gonna get hurt.
I just did a '67 Nova (inside AND out) and it reminded me how out of shape I am..
OH, and don't believe that it's DUSTLESS.. It's just less-messy than sand blasting. I'm on my second face shield because it bounces back RIGHT in your face and WILL enter skin if unprotected.. (you have to wait for it to fester, and pick it out with a needle and alcohol like a zit)

ANYWHO, back to my truck build..

The front axle is being more contentious than the rear.
I ran out of light and had to stop, but am trying to swap sides of spindles to get the center-link behind the axle.
BOY-O-BOY this stuff is tons heavier than my Honda parts!!

I got another sinking feeling when I looked at the cradle that holds the 545 Allison. I'm praying that it's the same width as the '64's since they didn't offer a 545 back then.
"IF" it's thinner, I can shim it but if it's wider.....??

I need to find out if the V8 "motor" mounts will mate directly with the frame mounts or if I need some kind of spacers.
When I was under there, I noticed that there was NOTHING holding the mounts to the engine block. Just sitting there resting on the mounts.

Oh well, back to work.
E

Well, it was just too nice of a day and a cancellation let me work on it again.
Pulled the motor and trans and ALMOST stabbed in the engine/trans.
http://imageshack.com/a/img538/7480/EfprRi.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img912/7231/ioJHeq.jpg

Not too much longer and I'll be running..
E

Well, got my jeep's drive train dropped A N D, Allison/sbc lowered in the 2-ton.
http://imageshack.com/a/img902/1526/bMcAFc.jpg

Since they never offered an auto in the big bolts, the trans crossmember is riveted in, and come to find out the 70(something)
GMC that I got it from had a narrower frame side to side, so I can't use the cradle from the Allison, and will bolt on the legs/trans mount legs and go from there.
http://imageshack.com/a/img538/7264/oXFmMU.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img673/4556/MHDt0T.jpg

Where the trans cradle mounts to the frame, the frame bottom is bent down from the factory to mate with the angle of the cradle.
If I have to move the crosmember too far either fore/aft, the bottom of the frame won't be bent down so I'll have to heat it and bend it down.

I've searched some threads of guys that dropped in a sbc in place of their I6 and said "it just drops right in".. Well, it may but what motor to frame mounts are used?
Part numbers would be FANTASTIC!!
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/4605/J1HeOC.jpg

But.. I did have to cut the little support framing that goes in front of the floor tunnel. I'll weld it back in when I get it all back together.

Errol