The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Stuck Inner Race

So, I am rebuilding the front brakes. The pax side pulled off ok. I have never delt with ball bearings before, just the tapered bearings. So, I was confused when the races fell out easily, but the bearings remained inside. Is that normal?

A round kind of pan, I think it is called the deflector came off, but no sign of what other are calling felt.

On the driver's side, what I think is the inner race is stuck to the hub, as I finally realized when the deflector on that side wouldn't come off.

So....to clairify my questions:

1. Does this felt thing go inside the cup of the deflector...meaning to the bearing side? Where do I find this felt?

2. How can I remove this stuck inner race?

Thanks,
Steven

The "pan" is more or less the seal, it drives into the rear of the hub assembly. It has a "felt" ring on its inner circumference that rides on a shoulder of the inner bearing ring.
if you have a race stuck, it probably has a little corrosion on the spindle under it. If you have a couple small pry bars you could probably work it off the spindle.

John

Get a long punch. Flip over the hub and tap in that direction. There are areas where you can get the punch on the race if it's long enough.

Are you talking about a stuck race on the spindle? If you are, don't use a lot of force or it will jam. You have to coax with some lube of some type.

Race in the hub, long punch. Try to keep the punch from the side of the seat as much as you can. Clean up any burrs before you put the new race in. It can be helpful to warm the hub and freeze the race before you install it.
Race on the spindle, gentle persuasion. The race on the spindle can be heated if it is to be replaced. Use LP or MAPPS not Oxy/Acetelene. No reason to hurt that spindle. I have used a plastic mallet to un-stick them if need be. Clean the spindle up and if needed use a light emery cloth to smooth out any burrs on that as well.

Clarification. Stuck on the spindle. I have avoided the use of any force save for a light prying motion. I don't plan to replace at the moment for a number of reasons; unless it is unavoidable.

I'll try the techniques here.

Thanks

So to clarify, there is an inner and outer race for both the inner and outer bearings. Sounds like the hub is off? That would mean the inner bearing's inner race, the seal and the deflector stayed on? Also, I think the seal is just tapped into the hub and the deflector just slides on the spindle. I believe if you use a penetrant lube and lightly tap all around race in a crisscross pattern, it will eventually loosen. A hard leather mallet, plastic or wood will be best. It has possibly galled/cold welded on. Many light taps will save it from damage. just hard enough to barely make a noise. Lots of patience. Increase force a little, after 100 taps. Maybe you can put a puller on it. Not to pull it off, but to put some medium pressure on it while tapping spindle. That way the vibration will break the rust bond. The race is a slip fit to the spindle, it's not pressed on, so there is a clearance gap which is now bridged by corrosion probably.

If you are not going to replace the race, I would just leave it there. Something else is you might try to get a little better grip with your hands. Maybe use a piece of inner tube or something like that to grip it and turn it. There are rubber band wrenches for taking off oil filters etc. They come in smaller sizes and may work in this case. Even the heat from a heat gun may actually expand it enough to turn it.

I have had bearing races actually rust or corrode to the spindles. Another alternative is to take a Dremmel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel and CAREFULLY cut the race almost to the spindle. DO NOT cut into the spindle. After you have made a slotted cut in the race then spray the spindle and race with PB Blaster take a small chisel and pop the race where you made the cut. It should open it enough to remove it. DO NOT strike the spindle with the chisel or you will be looking for another spindle.

Make sure you wear safety glasses too.... John

This is just my opinion: I would not cut it off. It will come loose with the other methods. DO NOT HIT IT HARD AND DO NOT HIT IT ONLY IN ONE PLACE. Tape up or sleeve the spindle if you are afraid of nicking it. I think we used to use the hub by catching the inside lip of the hub on the backside of the race and yank outward? (Slide hammer), But that is when I was young and dangerous.

Splitting it is what I would consider a last option thing.....

John

Agreed. Leaving it on is the best idea I've heard so far. If it is in the right place?

Slide hammer with hook end.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6541-Slide-Hammer-Pulling/dp/B000RGLX9E

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H863QP0...creativeASIN=B00H863QP0&linkCode=asn

Ok. Turned out to not be such a big problem.

Yes, the hub is off. It was the inner race stuck on the spindle in front of the deflector.

Just a small amount of even prying and small hits with a rubber mallet loosened it.

It seems that the 'felt' seals are pressed into the hub, if I am seeing it correctly.

I think that all is ok.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

"Felt" seal should be pressed into the hub. There is a stamped sheet metal "dust cover" that is lightly pressed on the spindle. It helps keep water and dirt from the seal which is the felt one on the hub. I hope that helps.

Steve H, (I too am Steve H)

That does help. I was about to order these pieces, but as I'm just redoing the brakes right now, I'll will keep all as is, as I am anticipating a move back to the US in the next few months, and it will be easier and cheaper to upgrade then.

Those are more of a dust shield than a seal. I don't know if anyone has come up with an improved "seal" or not.
If your ball bearings are good ( no discoloration, Spaulding or pits on them, they could be washed up, repacked and reused...

John

Those ball bearings are tough. If they look good when clean I would re-pack and drive.

Yeah I always figure those old bearings are probably better quality than today's bearings made in China...... John

On the bearing look for pitting on the races where they contact the ball. The pitting will look almost like a rust pit. If you see anything like that anywhere on either race just replace them. Last I looked the ball bearings were pretty expensive. The rollers will probably be a lot cheaper and higher capacity. I know there were a couple of suppliers who sold "conversion kits". You might find a direct crossover in a bearing catalog.