The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop cab removal, steering column

The plan is to remove the cab this weekend so it can go to media blasting Monday. I've got it pretty much gutted except for the steering column (steering wheel is already off). I read the shop manual but the only section that seemed relevant, in the "Steering" section, was about removing the steering box assembly, which I was hoping to avoid.

Is there a way to remove the column from the box so the cab can come off easily? Or does the cab need to come off with the column in place? If so, how do you support it with the under-dash bracket removed?

It is one piece, column and box, and should come off. It's not bad. If you had enough guys, I guess you could lift cab and pull chassis at correct angle. It does not need supported by dash clamp in that scenario. I always take in off frame. Pm'ed you.

Thanks, bartamos. PM'd you back.

Where's the problem with unscrewing a few bolts and removing the
unit???? If you're going as far as removing the cab then the
front clip is off and have easy access to the fasteners. And if
you've gone as far as removing the cab then you must be
planning a "frame off" restoration, where rebuilding the front
end and steering really should be on the "things to do" list.
The worst part is getting the pitman arm off and with a pitman
arm puller, (in expensive at HF) that's not a problem.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I agree with Denny. I am also rather sure that your sector shaft seal is leaking and needs to be repaired. The leaky seal is why John Deere cornhead grease always keeps coming up on this site.

In addition, the steering box is way easier to adjust when out of the vehicle.

OK, I've just done several searches and have been schooled on box rebuilds, leaking, and cornhead grease. That line in my signature about being a VW guy? Here's another example of the differences. I'll head to HF later today to get a pitman puller and get 'er done.
Thanks for the counsel.

What's the secret to getting the nut to break loose from the pitman arm? It's been soaked with PB Blaster but she no budge.

A long breaker bar (3/4" drive) and an even longer pipe.

Treat it like the nut of a Bug rear axle...

Ah, for that they make a special torque tool that turns 20 ft. lb. into 130 ft. lb.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=271506

On Chevys, that tool is called a 4' pipe, slipped over your wrench. It will either turn the nut or flip the truck over.

The less stressful way to loosen any difficult nut or bolt is an impact wrench. A good 1/2 inch drive air unit will loosen it in less than a second.
To get the steering out of the cab remove the steering wheel and the turn signal stuff, support bracket etc and it all comes out easy. Since I don't remember a year of truck mentioned not sure of the stuff under the steering wheel.

For the next guy with this issue:
Home Depot sells a box wrench, 1 1/8" at one end and 1 1/2" at the other, and at least 18" long. The trick: it's not in the tool section, it's over by the trailer hitches. It's the right size for attaching the ball to the hitch. All of about $10. It did the job in short order.

That was very "Shop Sharp".

I have a 39. Is this the same as later models? Remove steering box to remove the steering shaft to clear the cab for removal?

Yes, for any year with a one piece steering box and column. For any make by the way.

I don't recall the pitman arm nut being that difficult to remove on my truck, but it has been a long time ago. On my BMW's, the "community" refers to the front crankshaft hub bolt as the "Jesus bolt" because it is torqued to 350 ft-lbs and when you try to remove the bolt the first words that come of your mouth are "Jesus".

We need to start calling the pitman arm nut the "Jesus Nut"

On one of my truck's steering box, the pitman-arm nut was difficult to get off.

As posted above:

- Usually my 1/2" HF 450 ft-lb impact wrench does the job.

On that one tough nut, I used the old VW bus trans-axle nut technique (from the late 60s):

- 3/4" 2' breaker bar, heavy SAE socket, 8' long 2" pipe breaker-bar extension.

- If that did not break the VW bolt loose (and the bar was lifting the bus off the ground), we would ask a friend to get inside the bus and jump up and down. Afterwards we would celebrate with beers and other distractions.

We did not blaspheme after always achieving success - we would usually murmur "far out".

most anything up till I think '67 would be the same, a long shaft (spear) in the box. I think new safety regulation in '67 caused the dual reservoir master cylinder and some type of joint in a steering shaft (to avoid the unpleasant and inconvenient feeling of being speared or gored to death in a wreck), and recessed steering wheel centers (maybe even padded?) and recessed interior door handles (in some fashion). Going by memory, so might have some of this wrong as my memory sometimes forgets where in the hell it is. lefty

That was the only time I ever saw my VW do a wheelie.

My language has cleaned up immensely over the yrs so I now call both nuts featured in this interesting and entertaining thread Holy Moly nuts
I've got a 4' long thick walled 2" pipe that'll slide over my 3/4" breaker bar thats reserved for holy moly nuts and bolts.

I'd also like to add the lug nuts on the rear wheel(s) of a 48 Ferguson TE20 to the Holy Moly nut category too

To the OP, glad you got your answer and the pitman nut off
Dave