The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Not getting fuel

Took the truck around the neighborhood this past weekend (first drive of the year). On the second trip, the truck started to lose power and died. It would start briefly, but wouldn't get very far before it died again.

I walked home, brought the gas can back, and added about a gallon (gage said 1/4, but I don't trust it). Again, it would start, but wouldn't run for long. There was sediment in the fuel filter bowl, so I replaced the filter. After cranking it for some time, I'm not getting any fuel into the bowl.

I figure that either the pump is bad, I still don't have enough gas in the tank, or sediment in the tank has clogged the pump/line/whatever.

I've read on here how some guys have plumbed a "fuel IV" to the pump, rigging up a separate tank. I may try that to rule out a fuel supply issue. I know my tank is filthy, and I guess it serves me right for wanting to drive the truck before cleaning or replacing the tank. Can't help myself though, it's just so darn fun to drive!

By the way, here's a couple of pump photos. It looks too clean compared to the rest of the engine to be original.

Pump 1

Pump 2

Filter

Thank you for any thoughts on how to troubleshoot.

First step is to check line from tank to pump. You probably have a shut off valve under the tank. Turn that off, disconnect line at each end and try to blow air thru the line to the pump. If that's clear open the gas tank valve and check for flow. If that's good you're left with the pump and line to carb. Check pump by connecting hose to output (after you've reconnected the line to the tank and turned valve on), have someone crank the engine and look for output from the pump, using a catch can. That should tell you if there's a problem in the fuel system and where it is. Most guys run a filter in the main line from the tank to the pump since tanks are old and have lots of sediment.

You likely answered your own question when you stated that your tank is filthy. Picture flat flaky pieces of crud swirling around in the tank ending up clogging the hole in the bottom of the tank (if that represents your tank design) or the screen on your in-tank fuel pickup. This type of fuel delivery malfunction can be frustrating, as it can come and go when the crud moves around, on and off of the fuel pickup or the hole in the bottom of the tank. My recommendation, regardless of any other issues that you may have, would be to have the tank cleaned at a radiator shop or better yet, buy a new tank. I have suffered your pain, and swiftly solved it with a new tank.

Ditto on the tank. FYI, I took my original 49 3100 tank to a radiator shop and had it boiled out and pressure washed and it still filled my fuel pump and fuel filter bowls with rusty debris.
Many people have had good luck cleaning their tanks out and resealing them so that is an option, I went w/a new tank and haven't looked back.

I believe it's already been mentioned but you should disconnect the fuel line at the tank & fuel pump then blow it out to see what comes out. Very old fuel makes a hardened molassess type gunk that will clog lines etc. My fuel line had it. It wouldn't even pass any fuel. I filled it w/carb cleaner and let it sit over a weekend w/one end elevated. What eventually washed out was what I described earlier. I must have went through 2 cans of carb cleaner before I got nice clean fluid out of it. It works great now. I drive my 3100 every weekend.
Good luck
Dave

If you MUST keep the gas tank. Pull it out and clean as well as you can. Clear the lines, all of them. And clean the Carb. Put a filter some where between the tank and the pump. Put another between the pump and the Carb. And if there is still crud in the tank you can get by with a bit of metal screen rolled into a tube and pushed into the the outlet line until it sticks up inside the tank. Sot of a way to keep from clogging the outlet. Let us know how it works.

You guys were right. The moral of the story... make sure the fuel tank is clean.

I disconnected the inlet line at the pump and used a vacuum pump to make sure I was getting fuel out of the tank, and I was. There was a little sediment coming through the line, but the line was not blocked.

I took the pump off and took it apart, and it had a lot of sediment in it. I cleaned it as best I could, tried to flush the check valves, and reinstalled it. Still no fuel, so I replaced the pump.

I installed a clear filter ahead of the new pump, and flushed the pump-to-carb line. I got A LOT of crud out of that line. I suspect either that line was totally plugged, or the pump check valves were not sealing, or some combination of both.

So, cleaning or replacing the tank is on the top of the to-do list. I'll also replace the lines. That'll give me peace of mind knowing I've got a completely new fuel system.

Thank you all for the advice.

When I was cleaning and sealing my gas tank, I put a 6-gallon outboard gas tank in the bed and used a long rubber fuel hose from it to the fuel pump. I could then still drive it over the several weeks I took to work on the original tank.

I had a similar issue,

You might open up your carb chances are the bowl is full of the same gunk that was in your tank. If you have a Rochester 2g they can be a little fiddly but easy enough to learn how to mess with.

You can also just open it carefully and just get the stuff out of the bowl and put it back together.


Copper nickle fuel lines are pretty easy to DYI if you have a double flaring tool. They look cool and you don't have to worry about them work hardening like copper might.

I had just rebuilt the carb over the winter (it was very dirty inside), and luckily I put an inline filter at the carb inlet when I reinstalled it. When I had this no-fuel problem, the filter bowl had some sediment in it, and so I replaced the filter element. Now I have two filters - one ahead of the pump (clear plastic) and another ahead of the carb (glass bowl). Still, fixing the tank problem is on the top of my list.

That's a good thing. I wound up getting stuck again after I fixed every thing else because of the carb.

If your tank is really bad they sell re-pop ones that are direct replacements for around $160.