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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,069 Posts1,055,886 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | So I have been getting back to work on my 49 one ton. The roof of the cab is rough. The truck is a stakebed and was used as a farm truck for its entire life. As such, the roof has been used as a landing pad for stray feed sacks and hay bales. There are lots of little dents all over. I have a parts cab that has a immaculate roof compared to the original.
What would be the best way to replace the roof without disrupting the structural integrity of the cab? I'd like to remove the outer skin of the roof rather than cutting off the entire top. Anyone done this? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | I think I'd be more inclined to cut and replace the whole thing if it's really a solid top. I believe I'd cut it as if I were going to 'chop' it, only I wouldn't....
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | Surface rust, holes from cab clearance marker lights (which I may retain if I swap roofs), and one small shallow dent in the center top.
So to "chop" it, where would you cut it at? A-pillars and where at the back? middle of the back window? Beltline? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 277 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 277 | I know you are set on cutting, but don't underestimate what a good metal man can do with a roof like that. Before you get to cutting, you may want to play with what you have. If it does not work out, you have lost nothing. Once you get to cutting however....... I have a 49 Ford that had a similar roof. Kids had been jumping up and down on it. It was amazing how well it popped back. Now, except for hundreds of little hammer marks on the inside, you would never know it was damaged. Finished up without a bit of filler. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | I'd look for easy to weld points up front and I like to be closer to a body line for cutting the back area's. Near or on a panel crease has less tendency for warping but it could be a matter of where the good metal is and isn't. When I did my chopping I looked at a bunch of videos of other chop jobs and took the best idea's that worked for me.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | AJ, Your thinking of using the green cab roof on the red body?
I'd like some 'close up portraits' of the rust area's in the red cab and around the windows, front and back, of both. Have you gone around with an ice pick and tested for your weak spots on the red cab?
Looking at the back wall pic of the green cab I see lines just above the belt line and then radius up leaving the original bottom of the back window to use as an alignment point.
But Like Donf says make sure it's needed first.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | Don, I plan to play before I cut and swap.
Caso, yes, green roof to red cab. | | |
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