The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Steering wheel paint

I just repaired and painted my steering wheel. I used a Dupont acrylic enamel paint. I am considering putting a cote of clear urethane over it to keep it looking good, and wonder if there are any good quality rattle can clears that will hold up? I hate to buy a quart and have it just sit around and go bad, input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Scott

No. Rattle can anything just doesn't have the UV inhibitors to hold up to the Sun..

I got a rattle can of clear from automotive touchup or something like that when I fixed a big dent on my DD car early last summer... its held up well so far.... now I don't know how it'll be in a couple years, but so far so good.

Let me clarify something. When most guys ask about rattle cans, they are referring to Krylon or similar that the local box store has on the shelf. Stay as far away form those as you can, they will not last at all. But there is a company that makes spray cans with dual chambers for mixing 2K products, epoxy primers included. The down side to these products is that once it has been "mixed", the contents have begun to harden, whether you spray for one minute or empty the can. There is a 24 hour life at this point, so no putting it on the shelf and coming back to it next week, next month. For your steering wheel, this may be the ticket. For small parts that don't use up but about 1/3 of the can, the hardening process will cause considerable waste such that now mixing your own and using a spray gun starts to be more cost effective. While these guys state they have the best UV protection of any spray can clear, most have none at all, so take that for what it's worth. I doubt they are better than something mixed and sprayed proper. So, it is what it is, and is likely the best you'll do out of a spray can. Here's a link:

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

Be forewarned that this product has isocyanates, just like any other catalyzed 2K product. That means gloves, eye protection, ventilation, and respirators are prudent. Proper spraying with a paint gun using iso's requires an air-supplied respirator, that should warn you how serious to treat this stuff. It's not your typical Krylon.

For all the guys who frequent Eastwood, I've always said they were a glorified re-seller and anything they sell can be found cheaper, elsewhere. Case in point, their price is over $7.50 more per can.

+1 on everything Robert said. But, two little bits of additional information:

1. Automotive clear has a reasonably long shelf life and is not very expensive. Buy it and use it, it will be your best result. I have had excellent result in apply catalyzed clear over Rustoleum rattle can paint. The clear did not affect the Rustoleum at all and looks great. I used Rustoleum on my steering shaft and shift lever and will do the same of the steering wheel. All covered in catalyzed clear for durability.

2. There are respirators that are rated for isocyanates, so an air supplied hood/respirator is not mandatory, but not a bad way to go for sure. If you paint for a living, no doubt air supplied hood is preferred. But, for the occasional garage painter, an approved and well fitting respirator will do just fine. Heck, you even see the guys on the auto restoration shows using regular respirators. They do exist. 3M and Gerson make them as well as others I am sure.

David, good points on the respirators. I didn't clarify well on the air hood, not really worth the cost just to spray a steering wheel! The biggest issue is that iso's are odorless, and you don't know when your mask is no longer effective. So please don't use the one that's been sitting in the garage the past 5 years, but a new 3M disposable is cheap health insurance at about $20-25. I'd buy a new one and reseal it in the bag when done to prolong the lifespan. Where many of the guys on TV shows are wearing this exact respirator, they also likely have a down draft booth that keeps such fumes down and away from them for the most part. Someone's home garage will be more challenged for air flow. So if you do go this route, be sure to have some type of air flow to remove these fumes so you aren't standing in a vapor cloud. Iso's are attracted to moisture (that's where good ol' POR gets some of it's moisture curing from, iso's..) so your eyes are especially vulnerable. Most eye issues can be mitigated by staying out of the vapor cloud and a bit of air flow. Having advance awareness of the issues is key..

I agree. Iso's are odorless, but the paint is not. So, if you smell the paint, your respirator is toast or leaking past the respirator to face seal. I often test the face seal by blocking the respirator with my hands and breathing in gently. If I can get air in, I have a leak. I also always shave my face before painting to help with the seal. Definitely keep it sealed in the bag when not in use.

Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll bite the bullet and buy a quart and mix it. I do use a Norton resperator and keep it sealed in the bag when not in use. I also get out of the spray area as quick as possible and have a box fan evacuating the area. Thanks again Scott

Just to be contrary for a moment …...

I used Rustoleum Ivory and Rustoleum Clear on my 49 Olds wheel
that went into my panel truck.

2 or 3 coats of color (well dried between coats) followed by 2 coats of clear
(again well dried between coats).

3 years and no problems, looks great … If I get a problem…. it's $8 to touch it up..

Scott- Be careful with that box fan, the motor produces a spark unless it is labeled explosion proof. Most if not all are not safe for that use. Just a heads up. I'm doing my wheel outside on a nice day, I'll sand out the dust and buff it.

Not a recommendation so take it on your own, but I've used box
fans to evacuate fumes when spraying aircraft dope in an
enclosed building. Dope is basically lacquer, and mostly
lacquer thinner.
Box-type window fans and all centrifugal blowers generally all
use shaded-pole motors, which have the starting winding wired
in permanently and no starting switch to make a spark.
The only fear I would have with a box fan would be from static
build up generated from friction or from the manual switch. I
would make sure I had a ground wire to a good electrical ground
point and turn the fan on before beginning and after the fumes
have cleared.

If you're going to start painting things on your truck
then it's time to visit Harbor Freight and pick up a
cheap $20 spray gun. Stop by your local automotive
paint supply, many autoparts stores now carry a line
of automotive paints, and pick up you paint. They can
mix you up a pint or even a half pint. Shoot it out
side and you won't have to worry about a box fan but
do wear a respirator and stay upwind.
here are a few pictures (click next) of the wheel I
sprayed as described several years back with
PPG Omni. Handled for 10,000 miles so far and it
still looks like I just installed it:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/116022024

DG