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Joined: Jun 2010
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Shop Shark
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I first installed the interior trim on passenger side without issue and the trim screwed nicely to the door frame. However on the drivers side, the trim hits the screws holding the vent window in place and wont "suck" up to the door frame properly. Even if I remove the screws holding the vent window in place the trim will not pull in all the way to the door frame.

Has anyone else had this problem and what was the solution. Would be unwise to cut notches in the window trim? Would I be asking for trouble in that the trim would be weak and distort once screwed in place? The amount needed is almost 10mm...more than the depth of the #10 screw head.

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Sir Searchalot
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.4 inch? you got something way wrong. Why don't you take off the good side, compare, and see what is different about the trim or vent screws?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Oct 2005
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Do you have the correct trim. I'm picturing the earlier one piece window trim being installed on a vent window door. I could be wrong.

Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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You need to turn your ruler over. This is an American made vehicle. We use inches. Is it just me? Yah, its probably just me. smile Anywho...make sure you have the correct length of screws. If they are too long, the ends will bottom out on the inside of the door frame, preventing you from drawing the trim into place.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Shop Shark
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Haha, who would of thought that giving a dimension in metric would cause such a stir. I use both metric and English when I use my metal ruler simply due to which side is against what I am measuring to. It really makes no difference when simply trying to match up a measurement. Let's get back to the topic of the post please...

The trim is the same on both sides. The vent window screws are same on both sides. Original vent window anchor point holes used on both sides. I suspect the right side door (trim worked out well) is a non-original door as the fit was way off at time to fit doors and I had to significantly modify the width of the door to make it fit in the opening. So, that could be the reason one side works and other does not. When I purchased the truck, both interior door trim mouldings were removed and in the bed of the truck.

Unless I get other good ideas on how to solve the problem, I am going to remove the vent window anchor screws and replace with pop rivets. This will provide the lowest profile fastener with some degree of holding power. The trim will still be proud of the door frame, but I cannot bring myself to cutting on the trim...especially since I spent a lot of time repair the trim and painting.

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Renaissance Man
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DavidF, I was just yanking your chain about the ruler. I know metric is a superior method of measurement, but my Redneck-American heritage gets in the way of change.

I feel your pain with these trim pieces. They get bent out of shape by man-handlers, then bent back into what they think is back into shape. There are also two versions of these pieces. One version is thicker than the other. I think the difference is between the 51 forward doors and pre-51 doors.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Shop Shark
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Trim pieces show no sign of previous damage and fit the door well other than the front due to the vent window mount tabs and screws. The work I did on the pieces was due to heavy surface rust.

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Shop Shark
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Nope, vent window bottom bolts not the problem. I mostly solved the problem by using pop rivets on the front mounting tabs to door connection. This allowed the trim to almost lay tight against the door. About an 1/8" off from tight, but good enough since you don't usually see that part of the trim/door.


Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

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