The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay $149.99 vs $499.99 wiring harness???

Got a shy friend that will be setting his newly
restored cab back on to his newly restored frame and
he's asked me to throw some questions out to you guys
about the pre-made wiring harnesses.
He's looking at the one Classic Parts of America sells
that is made for his '50, 3100. He will be converting
to 12v with an alternator but that's about all of the
changes he will be making. Their claims are that the
harness comes with complete instructions and is
numbered for ease of installation. And it's only a
hundred and a half.

At the other end of the scale, Painless and several
others list harnesses for similar vehicles for
$400-$600. Obvious differences being, plastic wiring
with standard electrical terminals vs original color
coded cloth with period correct terminals, bare
necessities vs accommodations for power windows, door
locks, AC, surround sound stereo, electric wipers,
etc.

Never having installed one of the lesser expensive
harnesses, my question to you'all that have is, how
did it go? Was it worth the hundred fifty bucks and
were the instructions indeed complete?

Thanks
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, I've used EZ Wiring on my 37, back in 1999, and EZ Wiring on my Panel a year or so ago. Both have worked great. The Panel is a 20 Circuit with Mini Fuses. Cost 165 plus 17 for shipping.

...I looked at the more expensive ones but could not justify it.

the spendy ones are mainly because of the cloth covered wires, if that's not important the lower priced ones do the job fine

Bill

I installed the $150.00 one in my Suburban. It took me about 4 hours and was extremely easy. The instructions are easy to follow, IF, you have a working knowledge of your truck's electrical system. It does not come with anything fancy and is a direct replacement for the original style harness, minus the cloth covering.

Mitch

A couple of the high buck ones I've seen come complete with all the switches and light sockets included. I have considered going that route so that I don't have to try and tie new wiring into 60 year old sockets/connectors. Any thoughts or experince on this?

The one from Classic has all the dash light sockets attached, as well as the pig tails with terminal sockets for the headlights. You use your same ignition and headlamp switch and gauges. It's basically a wire swap.

Ok guy, thanks, I'll pass it on to my buddy.

Tanks again,

Denny G

Larry, the AAW kit is the best for completeness. Their Classic series does have everything, switches, Packard terminations and many other items great for renewing all. It is really nice but it is the most expensive for sure. You will need to buy or use a tool you have for the crimping/strain relief on the contacts. I used it on a TF. Very happy. Built my own from scratch also, very happy. But a lot of work, bought a used 80's Chevy truck fuse box ($15) and wired it to accommodate the TF, bought Packard 56 connectors and contacts, and wire and fusible links and other stuff, challenging but what else do I have to do. Does not really save money from the $150 kits.

I have never wired anything before wiring my 51, i purchased the expensive kit. My take is this besides the wiring being coded and labeled witch made no difference to me it was overkill. If i had to do it over again I would just purchase the (BOX) from them and buy my own wire. Probably would cost a third of what I paid.

The best thing about the pre-wired kits is that the wire is well colour coded and marked every 4-6" with the number and name of the circuit. This makes for easy troubleshooting. Without that you would have to make your own diagram and would still have issues with troubleshooting I'm sure. Just my thoughts.

I figure my time is worth $50 an hour to me. I don't believe I could build a harness from scratch in 3 hours. Plus no telling how much it would cost to buy a roll of each color and size wire you need. I'd go for the $150 one.

I used an expensive one the first time (on my '50) and an inexpensive one the second time (on my Dad's '49) I'll just say that the first one was PainFULL and the less expensive one went together very easily.

Craig

I've have used both, a $450.00 Painless 18 circuit kit and the $179.00 Rebel 9+3 circuit kit. These kits are best suited for modified trucks, not so much if your restoring an original truck.

The Painless kit had everything I needed to wire my truck including headlight pigtails, fuses and more. I chose that kit because I was building a '52 Chevy truck street rod from the ground up and needed everything to complete it. This kit was perfect because I have a late model GM column with ignition switch on column, electric wipers with delay, power windows and heater. I may add A/C later. Great harness kit, with a nice instruction manual.

When I rewired my buddy's '56 Chevy pickup, also a street rod, I used the Rebel kit. His truck already had new headlight pigtails from NAPA and is really a pretty basic truck. The Rebel kit is a good quality kit for the money, easy to install and Made in the U.S.A. You'll need to purchase some items like fuses and tie bands to complete the installation. But hey, that's how they keep the price low. A nice harness kit, instruction manual not so good.

Bottom line, you get what you pay for.

http://rebelwire.com/

Good luck!

Decisions,decisions. I have read mosts the post on 3 forums and still have not made up my mind. Each kit has its good and bad points, either too expensive or issues with the quality. One example is on the EZ21 harness I read twice that installers have found problems with the termination on the back of the fuse block!! That my friend is the LAST place you want an issue on a dark lonely road. So my dilemma goes on. The saving grace is I don't need it for a couple of months.
In the mean time I will just keep reading. The jury is still out.
(Ya, I know, you get what you pay for)
But, it's just WIRE,

BT

Denny,
i made my own wire harness for all mu vehicles except the 365. wire ain't cheap
no-moe !!! thanks to china and copper prices..
i have 5 relay working the front end stuff and a haywire fuse block working the rest
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?start=all

http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/0732700-R1-040-18A.jpg.html?sort=6&o=56
http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/0732700-R1-044-20A.jpg.html?sort=6&o=58
http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/4495365-R1-014-5A_1.jpg.html?sort=6&o=64

http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/DSC00492_0008.jpg.html?sort=6&o=292

http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/IMG_0715.jpg.html?sort=6&o=186

...... >>>>> all labeled <<< ....
http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/0732700-R1-038-17A.jpg.html?sort=6&o=101
http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/0732700-R1-036-16A.jpg.html?sort=6&o=100
http://s67.photobucket.com/user/1951otter/media/2650080-R2-026-11A.jpg.html?sort=6&o=87

My time working on trucks, or anything else, after retirement is worth $0 to me. I don't have a big schedule. SO I don't factor my time in anything. DIY'ers can not do that. I do value my money and try to do what is smart. Smart= try to do things I can accomplish, try new things, Don't spend more money DIY than store bought. You can't do a better job than a kit, but you might save some money if your time is $0. Everything can be ordered online if you want and usually saves money. I do stand by my previous remarks.

I've done several and prefer the American Auto Wire, that is the best handsdown.
Painless isn't and it'd be the last one I chose. A clue is the advertising policy, those that advertise the most need it and you see thier advertisements everywhere.
One very big consideration is the turn signals, the ez wire, rebel etcetc kits will have the turnsignals built into the fusepanel circuitry and require modern steering column or you'll be playing master electrician tring to integrate a signal-stat add-on turnsignal switch into a system that isn't designed for it.
Don't toss your dash lamp sockets, they are much better thn any modern sockets - like in the AAW kit - you just need the bits and pieces to utilize them. But the current aftermarket dash sockets are horrors - don't use them.

Just purchased mine from Classic Chevy Truck Parts. It appears to be very easy to install even if you have minimum electrical knowledge. Everything is numbered and full instructions are included. $149.50+shipping. Can't beat the price either. I was considering making my own harness also, but I couldn't buy all the wire and connectors for that price.

Nicely stated.
I have used 4 for those harnesses - a good use of my money and my time.

I'll be the proud owner of one next week . Thanks for all the feedback .

Well, I paid for the Painless harness, which "ojh" says he wouldn't do. I have very little electrical knowledge and had heard it was considered the "best". I'll not be using an after-market steering column though either (at least not the first go 'round). I plan on using the stock column, even though I'm running an AMC Pacer rack & pinion front end. Reckon I'll have to figure out how to splice in a turn signal switch...if I decide to use one. The ol' hand signals worked great when I had my first truck.

I've yet to start running any wires as I have so many other parts I'm working on. I knew that rebuilding one of these would be time consuming, but I didn't realize that it was getting all of the little things done would take so much time. Like striping and repainting the vent window frames, inside windshield molding, getting the stainless on the dash cleaned up, dome light, etc.

Look forward to trying the wiring. Hope it's as "painless" as they say it is.

Which companies sell the wiring harnesses with the original cloth-insulated wire? I have been unable to find one for my '53.

Chevs of the 40s

Jim Carters shows 50-52 with cloth

Jim Carter and Classic Parts of America show plastic covered wires 53-54?

Did/does your 53 have cloth or plastic covering wiring?

Thanks Tim. I believe mine originally had cloth-insulated wire, but have not gotten a definite answer yet. It is an Atlanta truck, about mid-53. I appreciate the leads.

I'll through out one other thought. I see you are converting to 12V. If you get the 6V harness, the wires will be large diameter because they carry more current. That's what I did and 'if' I ever convert to 12V, the 6V harness will work fine.

BTW, I used the classic harness for $150 with no issues. Good luck

I have date codes on my engine trans and rear from Nov 52 to Jan 53 and my truck has cloth insulated wires.

Last six digits on the VIN are 021143. Would this put my truck in that same era (late '52/early '53)?

Not to bring up an old thread, but I just purchased the $150 classic parts harness for my 54' w/ alternator. I have very little electrical knowledge, other than having installed a few sockets in the house, and some speakers/amps in an old car I had in highschool.

It took me a little while to get the harness oriented... I laid it out in the truck bed before trying to install it so I could get my bearings. Easiest thing for me to do, was pull out the headlight switch, and get that connected to the harness before anything... allows you to really see where the wires might be going for the rest of the truck.

Quality looks good, and I have only found any faults with it (which for those with more electrical experience it wouldn't be a problem). IF you're using a turn signal switch (such as the 7-wire from classicparts), you have to wire in your own flasher unit and fuse... but really that isn't all that terrible.

I'll be continuing to remove old wires, and install the new over the next week or so (hopefully I'll have time).

I am an electrical novice and was worse off 3 years ago when I did the install. No issues with my cheap harness aside from those customer service related. It took me about 6 hours to do. Wire by numbers is great and if I need to go back troubleshooting is really easy.


Me: Hi I just purchased a harness and I think it is missing fender grommets
Phone Rep: We have been selling that harness for 20 years and no one has ever had a problem with that before
Me: I'm sorry did I miss something?
Phone Rep: If you really want that you need to buy the $24 dollar head light harness
Me: wow great customs sevice!

I just wired my '53 using $150 (cheap) harness from Chevs of 40s, possibly same as Classic Chevy, couldn't be easier. Got lots of help and hints on the Bolt, like ditching the plastic sockets (instrument lighting) and replaceing with originals. The plastic krap was just krap. Hardest part was intigrating my old turn signals.

Do the $150 wiring harnesses Classic Parts of America and Jim Carter now have plastic dash-bulb sockets?

I have used at least 3 of their harnesses and they had metal dash/instrument-bulb sockets.

My harness has the plastic sockets (the 53-54 version)

My 55.2 harness had plastic sockets also.

Tim, the Classic Parts harness looks to me to have plastic sockets, as does the currently shown ones at Carter, but the American Classic ones appear to be metal .... as I recall the 55-59 harness I got years ago has the plastic sockets

Bill

What's the chance that American Classic is using an old photo, and theirs are also plastic?

So sad.

probably a good chance, but a call would find out .... I suspect the metal sockets have become obsolete or hard to reliably source so the wiring suppliers took the fast boat to China does anyone have a source for new metal sockets?

Bill

My classic parts 55-59 v8 w/alt harness came with plastic light sockets as well.

Might be easy enough to trim off the new plastic ones replace with originals and crimp a new button end.

Rhode Island wire
List the metal sockets

Americal classic list a single wire socket
Metal clip plastic body
...link...