The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How do you adjust valves while the truck is idling?

I adjusted my '48 235ci valves using the method outlined here.
I originally thought I would adjust my valves while the engine was idling, I recognized immediately this was out of my comfort level.
So my question is, how do you adjust the valves while it is running?

forward to 3:32
in this video

...YouTube...

A running valve adjustment is a poor substitute for doing it the right way, but some folks insist on that method. Get the engine idling as slowly as possible, and get really good at juggling a box end wrench, a screwdriver, and a feeler gauge while getting splattered with hot oil. There are special tools that allow you to combine a socket and a screwdriver tipped knob so the adjusting and jam nut locking becomes a one-handed operation. I see them on Ebay occasionally. search "valve adjusting tool". I've got a couple of those tools stashed away somewhere. Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a picture. I haven't used one in over 30 years- - - -there are much better ways to adjust stovebolt valves.

Edit: The Snap-On part number for the tool is V-21.

Jerry

you could try

Pull all of the plugs, hook up a remote starter and pick a cylinder. You can do one cylinder at a time. You can do it according to the firing order.
Or you can do it totally random. I use a bright yellow marker and put a dot on the rocker after it is adjusted.

Adjust the intake valve when the exhaust valve opens

Adjust the exhaust valve when the intake closes

even a cave man could do it

Curt,

Here are different brands of tools that Jerry referred-to.

Why not set the lash using the static method (another set of instructions is given at the bottom of that link/page)?

The static method is easier than the "running engine" method and easier than the "bump the starter for each valve" method; and, the static method is at least as accurate as the running-engine method.

You warm up the engine,
- set the engine to the timing mark,
- adjust half of the valves,
- rotate the engine until you line up the timing mark
- adjust the other half of the valves

No matter which method you use, if you have a groove in the mating face on the rocker arms, you will not get good settings.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm Here's the guide,as posted by "Oly". It took me about an hour to do the complete adjustment.Half of that time, was waiting for the engine to warm-up enough. Only 2 settings,do adjust all 12 valves! Thanks, "Oly"!! B.T.W... the way I did it,I only removed #1 plug,to make sure I was on T.D.C. Hope this helps.

Dads50 that video was a the first time I had seen it done while idling. I love the video, and I am so glad my job is not man handling a red hot crank!
Jerry I appreciate your advice, I don't need to impress anyone by adjusting it running, I just want my truck to run the best it can!
I have seen those "special tappet adjusting wrenches" from Britain, Plumb, and Snap-On. They look like they make things a little easier.
Jerry what method do you prefer to adjust them?

I use the "companion cylinder" method, something left over from adjusting race engines with very radical camshafts that have a very narrow window of cam lobe position that gives an accurate adjustment. It involves getting one cylinder on "overlap" where the exhaust valve is closing and the intake is just beginning to open, and adjusting the valves on the cylinder halfway around the firing order that's exactly on top dead center. It's similar to the method of aligning the timing mark, adjusting half the valves, turning the engine once and adjusting the others- - - -just a lot more accurate.

Like a lot of stuff old racers do, it might not be absolutely necessary on a street machine. We just do it by habit!
Jerry

Dads50 - thanks for sharing this video. What are the guys with the long screwdrivers listening for? Appears they do a front, mid and rear check?

Why are exhaust valves set at 3X clearance as intake valves? And why is there a range (+/-) and how do you pick where you should be in the range?

Exhaust valves run hotter than intakes so the valve stems stretch more. Every time the valve opens it gets exposed to the hot exhaust gas, while the intake is cooled by the incoming mixture. The long screwdriver is a field expedient stethoscope- - - -they're listening for a rattle that indicates the valve adjustment is loose.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry. Seems like you would adjust valves with engine cold then, before the exhaust valve stems expand. What's the main reason for adjusting on a warm engine?

So your valves will be properly adjusted when the engine is up to operating temp and buzzing down the highway.

So they are already 'expanded' when you set the gap.
If you set the gap (without allowing for the expansion)they are cool but then they expanded an extra few thousands the gap would be smaller by that much... meaning more pressure and heat trying to squeeze through each time it cycles and.... oops the valve burnt.
That's why you see a cold and a hot setting aome times.

Not exactly. The main cause of burnt valves as it relates to "tight" valve adjustment is that once the gap (your feeler gauge setting) disappears, the valve is no longer seating completely, or seating for as long a period during the cycle. And since the valve sheds most of its heat during this period while it is seated, it begins to overheat and eventually deteriorate and burn, or break, away.

Exhaust valves run much hotter than intake valves so they can increase in length more. When adjusting using feelers, it is easier to detect that the next gauge up is too tight or one before is too loose.

So lets see Aero, if that logic applies then the more we let it
clatter the longer the valve stays in contact with the seat and
the cooler the valve will run right?? I can see where this
thread is headed by page 5 when we start to factor in using sodium
valves, engine rpm, air temperature, density and grade of fuel
that we're using. Not to mention the fact that the water
jackets in most of these old Stovebolt's are so limed up that,
that should be the major concern rather than a couple of
thousands variation from the nominal valve adjustment.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Inline Jimmies powered our tank wagons into the early 70's. The book calls for 12 and 20. Closer than that would burn valves in a hurry. We converted to "free" valves and the 302 came with "free" valves. We made sure that 12 and 20 was a minimum. A thou or so more didn't hurt anything. And we just didn't worry about the rattling. I still break out the old Snap On tool with a 5/8 socket. I see no sense in changing something that has been working for me for over 50 years. My old 645 Sioux valve machine has a rocker refacing attachment. Refacing the rockers eliminates a lot of the rattle and eliminates false clearance readings.

I still use my old P&G valve gapper, slow but dead accurate. It takes into account any wear in the rocker, rocker shaft, if the valve stem has cut an eyebrow into the end of the rocker, and even what oil film thickness exists. Still see them offered on ebay but be sure to get the complete kit.

I have one of the valve adjustment tools and setting the lash on a running motor is SUPER EASY.

I do the intakes first.

First, I try and slip the feeler between the rod and rocker. If it will not fit, lash is to tight, if I can get it in its either right or to lose.

With the tool on the rocker, I loosen the nut, turn the adjuster till I can get the feeler in and then tighten the adjuster till the feeler has a bit of drag then tighten the nut.

Takes about 10 seconds per rod.... so yeah.. full valve adjustment in less than 2 minutes.

Evan, tell us more about that P&G gapper? Lots of ups and downs on the internet. Seems that those that have them swear by them
and those that taint think they're useless. Having a machine
shop background I like the idea especially since a good portion
of the solid lifter engines that I've had over the years have
had enough wear on the rockers to make a difference.
Bet there taint to many dudes here that have heard of them also.

Two minutes to adjust the valves, heck, you should drop the
pfarber and take up the handle speedy.
Denny G

That's only part of one Don, there are a variety of inner
barrels, base adaptors, springs that are required. All
different for different makes and models. You really need a
good mix unless you can find just the set for the Chevy 6, if
that's what you're working on. The boxed model 300 had the most
common sets and came boxed like this:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/154805833
DG

Adjusting the valve lash is not super critical. As long as there is enough clearance to let the tappet/rod rotate as designed in operation you are good to go.

The only real danger is when the lash is to 'tight' and not allowing valves to seat. There is no real danger if you are loose a thou or two (or five). Might tap a bit... but won't hurt much.

The feeler gauge method fails when there is wear on the rocker. You need both the valve stem and rocker nose to be flat and perpendicular... the wear will increase the lash.

Setting lash cold is quick and easy. Screw down till contact is made, then loosen the adjuster as many flats as you need (I did the math in another post IIRC 2 flats for intake, 3 for exhaust). This is probably the best way to account for wear as you are dealing with actual contact not a feeler gauge that requires perpendicular mating surfaces. Many motors that don't give you a lot of clearance to get in with gauges (motorcycles in particular) use this method. I did with my 06 Boulevard. Works fine.

Here's the manual image of the tool in use.... its a PDF file so you need a pdf viewer.

Fasts and easy valve adjustment