The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Too Rich? '48 235 Loadmaster

After adjusting the timing and carburetor my '48 Loadmaster is running great, however it sounds odd to me at idle.
Here is how it sounded restarting it after it sat for an hour on a 55 degree day.
This is how it sounds fully warmed up after a 10 mile drive on the same day.
Am I over thinking this?

Place a piece of paper against the tailpipe and see if it gets sucked toward the pipe from time to time. You may have a sticky valve or one of the valves is burnt or is adjusted too tight and is not seating fully.
Carl

I didn't notice smoke in the video but the noise sounds like valve to me also. Did you pull the plugs or just go right to carb adjustment? Plugs are a great indicator of fuel mixture. Also try the old screw driver to the ear truck and cruise along the valve cover to find the ticking noise. Or stethoscope if ya have one.

I appreciate your input guys, I have a little under 500 miles on this rebuilt motor, I had not checked my timing since I first got it running. It was off so then I readjusted the carburator. I have not checked/adjusted my valves since it was reassembled, looks like that is what I am doing next. I hope it's not a burnt valve!

Curt,

What procedure do you use to adjust the timing?

What procedure did you use to originally adjust the valve lash?

I'd pull the valve cover and adjust the valves.

Tim I used a vacuum gauge to adjust the timing, it was a idling about 15 now its at 19. My machinist set the valves at reassembly, which I am assuming is going to be off, since the motor was cold.
I will adjust the valves at idle, after the motor is completely warmed up, and the oil temp is stabilized. I will be setting the intake to .010 and the exhaust to .020. Now that I think about it, I don't recall ever discussing the fact that my truck is a 1.5ton with my machinist, so again I am assuming the adjustment is off.
Carl thanks for the tip, I tried it this morning and when the 'noise' happens the paper would momentarily be sucked against the tail pipe.
Once I adjust the valves I will post what I found.
Thanks again everyone!
Curt

Curt,

As Don posted, and especially after seeing that only a cold setting was done, do a warmed-up-engine valve-lash adjustment. If you will not be using the truck as a "working truck" (meaning, high-revving with heavy loads), you could used the tighter "thriftmaster" valve lash settings. Looser/louder; but, I think that tighter risks valve/seat burn/damage and/or overheating of the valve.

Someone else might have better information/warning regarding using the tighter settings for a lighter-duty-use engine.

Pardon my ignorance here but the thread title questioned if the 235 was running too rich. I had a problem with my 235 running rich and Pre 68 Dave nailed it...

"99 percent of the time a Rochester is running rich it is because the wrong base gasket was used. This blocks the power valve port on the base."

Is your carburetor a Rochester?

Mendonjo, yes the carb is a Rochester B. I recently rebuilt it, and I have the correct base gasket and insulator installed. Also the manifold heat valve is hooked up and functioning properly. I originally questioned if I had it adjusted to rich, but it seems my valves are not adjusted correctly.