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Joined: Apr 2009
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'Bolter
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I purchased the Brassworks replacement heater core and fan for the round Harrison recirculating heater and it arrived a week ago. I dinked around with it after work for a few days and installed it this weekend.

The short report- First of all it doesn't leak! It is a well designed and engineered replacement part. For everyone that whines about overseas cheap parts this is a made in the USA product and it is not cheap (in every sense of the word). The $299 I paid is only a fraction of what I have spent purchasing and repairing stock heater cores only to have them immediately leak. It is not a direct bolt-in, you have to do a little work and salvage the mounting ring from the original core to mount this one. It was fairly cold and raining all weekend so I was not able to get the truck up to full temperature but the heater was putting out plenty of heat. I wish I would have went this route sooner. This is a very viable option for anyone how wants a trouble free upgrade for the recirculating heater core and fan.

The Brassworks website isn't really very helpful in getting a good picture of the unit or understanding what you need to do to mount it. For those wishing more info I will attempt to attach some picture links and more info below. My only connection to the company is as a satisfied customer.

Heater as it arrived
Perhaps it is normal for one of the tubes to be angled out like this. One of the original cores I had was kinked about the same angle and one had both tubes straight. In any case the stock firewall openings will accommodate either width between the tubes.

Compact and well designed

Nice tanks and a thick core

You need to unsolder the 3 bolt mounting ring on the original heater core. Just heat the 2 points where this ring is solder to the core.
Salvaging the mounting ring

The new core has brass strapes soldered to the ends of the tubes which won't fit through the existing holes in the mounting ring. You could unsolder them until the ring is mounted, file them, use a dremel tool, etc. I just drilled them big enough with a 3/4" bit.
Opening the holes in the mounting bracket

I cleaned up the mounting ring and primered and painted it.
Cleaning up the mounting ring

I couldn't readily find a matching electrical plug for the one supplied with the new fan. There is also a large square hole cut in the supplied mounting plate presumably to pass the electrical plug through. I though that might have a slight effect on developing pressure for the defrost. I soldered some other wires to the cut off plug and found a round grommet that filled the square hole nicely.
New electrical connections

There are plenty of different ways you could attach the stock mounting ring to the new heater unit. I used 4 small sheet metal screws and it is quite firmly attached. Just make sure you are not screwing into the tanks!
Mounted to the original bracket

In the original housing

This is a simple valve I use to stop flow or control flow through the heater core. It works great!
Flow control valve

The heater back inside the truck. I have pulled this unit and another just like it enough times for leaks I think I could have done the whole thing start to finish in about 2 hours if I hadn't wanted to clean up the parts some.
Back in the truck

Chuck




Joined: May 2001
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Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
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It looks great and you did a great write-up on it.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
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....where did you get that cut off valve. Local flaps???


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'Bolter
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Nice looking setup,looks like it will handle the pressure better than the original core. Price seems reasonable since it comes with the fan and core. Will be saving to purchase one for my truck, once it's in and closed up you can't tell that it's not the original round heater core, these folks did a heck of a job redesigning this to work.

I purchased one of those cut off valves at the NSRA show in Knoxville last year, got a good deal and saved on the shipping.

Last edited by cletis; 03/04/2014 6:37 PM. Reason: removed personal message
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Achipmunk
....where did you get that cut off valve. Local flaps???
I found the one I am using on ebay. I believe it is a stock part for a Hummer but I do not know what year or model. It was about $20.

Chuck

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New Guy
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Chuck, Thanks for being the one to take the plunge on this, and then doing an excellent write up!

I have been thinking about this for a couple months, but like you said the web site does not really give many details. You have convinced me that this is a worth while purchase and I will be ordering it.

Bob.


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'Bolter
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Quote
....where did you get that cut off valve. Local flaps???
Alvin,
The valve you asked about is a Four Seasons 74661 Heater Valve
This valve is on ebay now.

Also check this site:
Four Seasons 74661 valve
Harold

Last edited by cletis; 03/05/2014 7:22 PM. Reason: deleted ebay link.

Harold
Is a restoration ever finished?
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Thanks guys. I need to store that for later reference and thanks to Hookalatch for his tutorial on the heater core.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,554
B
'Bolter
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Wow,that turned out really nice. I would put a small rubber grommet in the firewall where your cable extends through.Looks really nice !!!!


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