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| | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,055,951 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | I have two tail lights. My truck is not equipped with turn signals. The left and right are wired up in parallel to each other. I was having problems with the left not responding as it should, so I replaced the pig-tail/boot subassembly. Here are the details:
- Left and Right BOTH light up as parking lights. - When brake is applied, only the right gets brighter. Left light turns OFF completely. - I swapped bulbs and saw no change. - I swapped wires on the left and the reaction didn't change, only which filament that was lit did. (I hope I remembered that correctly.) - The license plate lamp was removed from the circuit during trouble shooting.
I think I proved it isn't grounding because it works as a parking lamp. I think I proved it isn't the bulb because it worked correctly when swapped. There are only two stupid wires here, and I tried both possibilities so I'm having a hard time thinking it is the wiring. I got a new pigtail and saw no improvement over the last pigtail. The only thing I HAVEN'T changed out is the socket/housing, but I can't believe this could be it.
I'm at wits end. Any ideas?
Thanks for any help.
Bill :confused: | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | parklamp working doesn't mean good ground, it can get a ground via the other light if that has a good ground, but ground has to be good on each light for brake lights to work right - disconnect the wires from right light and see if the left acts the same - check for ground with an ohm meter from the actual socket to the frame
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | TxLaTx,
As red58 mentions, it's an easy task to attach a jumper wire to the frame with vise-grips and touch the other end to the brass lampholder. This looks like the only part of the problem that hasn't been investigated.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Thanks, gentlemen. Always a comfort seeing input from you both. I'll go give it a shot and see what results and report back. Thanks for the advice!
Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Using your advice, I grounded the little tang where the lens screws attach to the lamp housing. I was able to prove the root cause of my problem was (just as you suggested) a poor ground. The bad ground was a result of loose lamp mounting bolts that attach to the bracket. I tightened them up really good and the problem is solved! I'm back to having brake and driving lights. Much obliged. Bill Side note: This was a big weekend for me. I drove my bolt roughly 80 miles on Friday, the most I've driven it in one sitting. I think I was paid a big compliment at the body shop where I'm getting bumper work done. A couple guys came out to do a lookover, and one guy said, "Yep, it even smells like an old truck." ...at least I THINK it was a compliment.  | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 | | | |
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