The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Impact Wrench problem

My Chicago Pneumatic (about 20 years old) impact wrench isn't working any more -- it just goes "Pppffffffffftt" when I pull the trigger and won't even spin the socket when I hold it with my hand.

Is this fixable or is it time to go air tool shopping?

Thanks,
John

John,

Did you regularly oil the wrench? A drop in the air hole, each day you used it?

My HF CP (odd-brand Central Pneumatic) 1/2" 450 ft-lb impact wrench is almost as old as yours. Try some WD-40/etc down the air-hole. If it loosens up, put some oil down the air hole.

Good luck,

You may be able to rebuild/fix it. The older models were very stout. Check out CP online. CP Kits & Parts

Thanks both of you -- I *have* regularly oiled my air tools. And with actual air tool oil. Maybe not every time, but most every time

I'll try the WD40/beadblaster and see if that helps.

I'm guessing the giant lug nuts on the M-37 probably killed it.

If you spring for a new one there are obviously plenty of good options out there. Only one I have experience with as a now probably 8 year old Snap-On 1/2" impact. I don't use it very regular but when I do it always does the job. It even does what I had to borrow a 3/4" impact for in the past, the output shaft nut on a Roadranger with a 2-3/8" socket.
I think the newer versions are stronger yet.

Grigg

Are you sure you taint grabbin' the Harbor Freight impact John,
that's the way 90% of the air tools I've gotten from them
typically operate......phsssssst. phssssst.

Chances are it's just one of the 'O' rings, I'd do as sims
suggested before I pitched it for a new one and put a kit into
it, they should be cheap. I'm sure you know CP tools are the
Cadillac of air tools and are made to last forever in everyday
use.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ch...ct-wrench-parts-c-36298_36299_36477.html

DG

Now would be a good time to buy yourself an Ingersoll-Rand 2135. In you shop around on the internet, they can be bought new for a little under $250. But make sure you buy a new one. Once you use it, You won't care if your old CP stays broken. We used to fix impacts, but since IR came out with their titanium impacts. We throw broken ones impacts away. As for the nut on a Fuller output shaft, we use heat. It is a one time use self locking nut that needs to be thrown away anyway. If the transmission has a lot of salted roads, the rear yoke can even get stuck. I am gathering together all of my old surplus transmissions to take to an auction in Dallas. We are removing all the old yokes because core buyers assume the yoke to be stuck if it is present, and a stuck yoke makes the whole back section of the transmission scrap iron.

Thanks Kenneth! Ingersoll-Rand 2135 with the extended (2") anvil ordered and on the way.

Denny ... you were right

Second that on on the titanium impact!! Both 1/2" drive, 3/4" drive AND 1" drive.

John;

I know you already ordered one, but this will also do the trick.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261395046284?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l4455&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI261395046284.N7.S2.M699.R7.TR28

Torque on those lugs is 450 pound feet. Remember, the lugs on the left side of the truck are left hand threads.

John G

John, what size is your air line and/or fittings? A 3/4 or 1" impact is about worthless if it's being fed through a 1/4" fitting. I have a 3/4" IR that I use on the F7, and a dedicated port on my air system was changed out to 3/8 high flow fittings. These don't have the automatic air shutoff when you release the hose (causes more air restriction), so a gate valve was added upstream to be able to shut things down prior to disconnecting hoses. This increase in fitting size will make night and day difference in the torque you have available with any impact gun.

J Gott -- Yep -- I did actually read the maintenance manual, ya know (the big "L" on the nut was a clue, too...) But speaking of tires, I will soon be in the market for a set of the Goodyear 11.00R20 G177's if you know of any nearby.

Robert -- Yep -- 1/4-inch fittings. worked well enough until I started messing with bigger toys ...

John

Any particular reason you are putting on 11's. 10's were standard of the industry until tubeless took over in the 70's and 80's. 11s may be a little while for your wheels if you have the 7.5" wheels. Also the G177 is really not a highway tread. Scroll down to page 10.

http://www.goodyear.ca/truck/pdf/product_brochures/Mixed_Svc_Broch_P.pdf

As for air hoses, a 3/8 hose with 1/4" quick connects works fine on a 1/2 drive impact. For 3/4" and 1" impacts, we use 1/2" quick connects and 1/2" quick connects at the tool with 1/2" hose. If a 1" impact won't rattle it of with that kind of hose, your vanes are probably worn out and are passing too much air.

Stud piloted nuts can be really tight and a 3/4 drive impact can be pretty useless. We still have one of these for the really tight ones.
http://www.qualitytoolsforless.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=34624&gclid=CN2Vgu-o0bwCFeJF7Aod30wAng

The square drive absorbs too much of the rattle when they are really tight. The splines fit tight and the rattle isn't lost like the square drive. Even at that, I have had to use heat on top of it on vehicles that spent their life in the rust belt.

John M

There is set on Ebay right now from Oshkosh truck, 10 tires w/wheels on 2 pallets for $1850 plus shipping. Shipping is around $300.00. Also, Berg tire in NC has them, for around the same price. These were taken off 5 ton trucks when they were up fitted to super singles, they are date code from the late 90's to early 2000. They are no longer in production, made specifically for the military. They replaced the bias ply Goodyear Titan T-Hawks (which is probably what your truck had currently.)
The impact that Crewelge has in is previous post is the mac daddy, takes lugs off without a sweat

John G

Kenneth -- Yeah buddy, that's what I'm talking about Wish I had one of them some times ... The 177's I'm needing are for my M817 5-ton dumper. She doesn't see much highway time, but riding around the county picking up manure from several horsefarms for our compost project has been rapidly grinding off the tread from my soft rubber NDT's (T-Hawks that weren't designed for paved roads ...) St. Mary's County. MD isn't exactly uptown, but it's not the Fulda Gap, either. As John says, the perfect tires for me are lightly used 177's off an M-923 that someone is switching to super singles.

John -- Oshkosh truck has a lot of stuff, but they seem a little proud of what they've got, too. I'd like to try and find them closer, anyway. Ever dealt with that guy up in PA? or the dude in Annapolis with the Huey? There's a set on SS right now in FLorida. If only I had a way to get them ...

Of course, the air brake repair on the 9500 has set me back a bit, too, so the 817's new shoes may have to wait a bit.

I think my point is that John has a real slick little 9500 GMC which is a highway tractor. I doubt that he has the 8" wheels that are required for an 11.00x20 and I see no reason to put an off road tire on a highway tractor. I haven't used an open shoulder tire in many years simply because in our operation a closed shoulder tire delivers more mileage. I don't think the closed shoulder drivers like I use now had been invented 40 years ago or maybe I just couldn't afford them. I would not recommend buying a used old radial tire. As radials age, the belts separate from the bead. I have about a dozen storage trailers full of junk that I should get rid of. They all have 15 to 20 year old radials and ever so often one blows out from just sitting there. And the explosion can be pretty violent. We had one backed up to a chain link fence that tore up the fence when it blew. I'm not sure if any of the major manufacturers still make a 10.00R20. I have seen some Samson 10.00R20 drive tires at farm stores. I put 6 Samsons on a forklift about a year ago, and have had no problems. And they cost about 1/3 of a Goodyear. And they will probably get gouged sidewalls in our truck yard before anything else happens. The simple solution would be to get 8.25x22.5 wheels and put 11R22.5 tires on them that are still readily available.

Well I see your last post, and the old military type tread is fine for an off road vehicle. Thats what they were built for.

John M

I have not dealt with the guy in Annapolis. I forgot to mention TNJ Murray in Dover,DE and Eastern Surplus in Philly, Pa. The going rate is $185.00 to $250.00 for a tire/wheel combo.

John G

Hijacked my own thread .... cool

Back on point ... The IR 2135TiMax came yesterday. I tried it out. It's nice! Today is oil change day down on the farm (Don't tell Hambone -- He thinks he's coming to dig stumps out of the ground ...) and I may even rotate tires now ...:)

Thanks for all the input!

John

Oh, that's where my car went ....

He did like the "gun." He came in the bedroom with it aimed at his forehead, threatening to "end it all."

I asked him to do it outside so there wouldn't be a mess to clean up.

My car ... ah! Great.

Peg

John M;

Awaiting a SITU on your new purchase.

John G

John -- It works great. Haven't tried it on any big truck lugs yet. Did the little ones fine. Getting the extended anvil was great -- it really adds utility.

It looks so nice and new, I don't want to get it dirty -- so I threw my presentation gold-plated and engraved Colt on the manure pile and used its fancy display case for the impact hammer. Looks nice in there.

I would not expect anything less from you

I am just happy for Peggy. I figure if you can throw a gold plated Colt on a crap pile, she must have a really nice shiny new... Uh oh!

Bruce,

A manure hauling business?? We should talk! PM on the way!

John