The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 4 link vs original leaf springs

So, first off, here is my plan so far: 1951 3600 with a v8 (thinking somewhere between 250, 400, or 454 if I'm feeling adventurous) with a tremec tko 600 transmission and stock 4.57 rearend. Also, I am keeping the stock height. I plan to use this truck as a fun "drive anywhere to the store or on a road trip" truck. In your opinions, should I go with stock leaf springs or a 4 link set-up for the rear end (if they make that for 3/4 tons... do they?) I appreciate your input. Thank you for your time.

I would get the engine in place before I would worry about rear suspension. You are going to have to move the steering box, fabricate exhaust and change motor mounts. You may have change your mind a dozen times by then. Four link is really for high performance passenger cars. not 3/4 ton pickups.

You say that you want to keep it at stock height. Does that mean your leaving the front suspension stock? If so why modernize the rear suspension?

Not that it hasn't been done, but going to a 4 link on the rear and keeping the frontend stock, is kind of like an elevator in an outhouse.

If you want a better riding truck, you don't have to go to a 4 link.

Try swapping to different leaf spring setup in the rear.

The Ford Ranger leafs look promising.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7715

When you factor in the pack thickness and arch, they are about the same height as the stock 3600 springs.

They're 10 inches longer so they should ride lots better. Plus, they are 2.5" wide vs, 2" giving them a little more stability.

They come in a few different weight ratings, so you can pick whatever meets your needs.

Here's the hangers for them
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/hangers/ford-shackle-hanger-kits

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/hangers/front-of-rear-ford-hangers

That's my $.02

A Tremec, V8, and stock rear end? Stock height?

What is your plan and goal for the truck? It seems like you're going for power but trying to spend little money? I don't mean that in a negative way. I would rather spend the money in making sure the truck handles and stops well first, then worry about the power and Tremec afterwards.

I want a truck that is fun to drive around anywhere. I'm not afraid of it handling like a truck. I decided on the tremec and stock rear end because the ratios seemed good together. My brakes are going to be stock drums with power brakes. I'm trying to figure out suspension now. after reading the replies, I think I'll stick to stock leaf springs.

Stock brake are NOT ADVISED for what you're planning. The brakes and steering should be your first improvement.

If you want something fun to drive anywhere, upgrade the important stuff like brakes and steering otherwise it won't be fun.

They don't make upgraded disc brakes for 3/4 tons. I found a power brake conversion for my truck and read that power drums could do well. And I was going to ask about steering in another thread.

You might need to upgrade to a newer axle to get more modern brakes. You are talking about potentially big power, skimping on brakes is not a good idea.

So you dont think power cylinder and 7" booster will suffice?

You can power them all you want but you're talking about doing highway speeds and potentially big power with old technology drum brakes, adding a power booster is just a bandaid. Sure it will work, but you don't want to be in an emergency situation and find out they're marginal at best.

A 7" booster is about half the size of what would be appropriate for a power drum brake system on that vehicle. Looking at the pedal boost available with that size diaphragm, you'll only have about 1/3 the necessary pedal thrust increase. Better than nothing, but not much!
Jerry

You could use a hydro-boost from a 1 ton Chevy pickup. They use the power steering pump and hydraulic pressure rather than working with vacuum.

Jerry;

How do you figure the necessary boost? I've toyed with the idea of adding some kind of "power assist" on my 58 Burb. Is there a rule of thumb on break boosting?

Am I better off picking up a disc brake conversion kit?

You can get a ballpark guesstimate by figuring the square inch area of the booster diaphragm and converting it into pounds of thrust at a particular manifold vacuum. For instance, just picking an example off the top of my head:

15" of mercury manifold vacuum is about 1/2 an atmosphere of pressure- - - -conservatively, 7 pounds per square inch. The area of a 7" booster diaphragm is:

3.14 X radius squared- - - -38.5 square inches

Booster area times 7 equals 269 pounds of push- - - -the booster makes your leg that much stronger. As the booster diaphragm gets bigger the push on the master cylinder piston increases somewhat geometrically.

12" booster diaphragm = 113 square inches
113 X 7 = 791 lbs. of push on the master cylinder piston. Where brake boosters are concerned, bigger is almost always better!
Jerry

A 7 inch booster is standard hot rod fare these days. Most vehicles don't have the room for a 12" booster as you specify, I would have no issue of using the 7" booster. The amount of vacuum the engine has comes into play as well.