The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Mixing K36

OK gang, about ready to put on K36 primer surfacer for the cab and bedsides. I want it for high build for sanding. The spec sheet calls for 5:1 with the K201. I get that. It also says you can use 1 part DT Reducer. I don't think I want that but thought I'd check to see what you guys recommend.

Dennis

I didn't reduce mine and it worked fine, I think you would loose some of the build charactaristics if you were to reduce it.?? Scott

That's what I was thinking but wasn't all that sure. Thanks.

Dennis

I haven't shot it but usually something like that may need a bit of help getting through the nozzle on some guns and lay out flat...

I doubt you'd see any difference in build since what little reducer you add has little to do with the solids that are left when it evaporates.
None of the reducer stays in the paint, but it may take longer to dry than a straight mix so allow for that.

5:1 with K201 just like it says. As with ANY primer, use the 1.8 tip. It will still spray with a 1.5 but you will be happier with 1.8. Have fun!

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Well I don't know about ANY... I know several that want 1.4.

Yes. My experience with primers begin and end with DPLF40 Epoxy, K36 High Build Urethane, and DSS Sealer. I have the Finishline 4 set up with a 1.8 and my Tekna Copper set up with 1.4. I have all the other sizes I just never use them.

I'm good to go. Thanks guys.

Dennis

Can someone tell me what DSS sealer is?

DAS3025 is what I was referring to. Sorry for not being more specific. I love this stuff because I can stop at 400 dry, run the sealer, then topcoat and it comes out perfect.

Deve, have you tried thinning the DPLF40 since the data sheet says that makes it a sealer. That is what I was planning on doing since I should already have some when I get to that stage.

Dennis

I haven't tried it. I am pretty new to all this so I follow what the PPG supplier in my area tells me. I hear that works, but by the time I am at that stage, I have put 100's of hours of work into the work, so I don't feel I can afford to take chances. If you are gutsier than me, let me know how it goes!

It will be a while before I'm at the sealing stage. I'll let you know what I choose. I know what you are saying about not wanting to take a chance. I just tossed 1/2 tube of glazing putty. It looked OK, but I've had it a couple years now.

Dennis

I seem to find all the pitfalls the hard way. That's just my lot in life. For example, I decided to paint the differential cover the body color.. in this case yellow. I used DCC Concept (PPG). It came out with a lot of orange peel and I wasn't happy with it, so I sanded it down just to smooth it (just smoothed the paint, didn't break thru to anything else). So, epoxy primer, K36, sealer, then the Concept Yellow. It was about two weeks later. I sprayed it on and IMMEDIATELY it started lifting off the cover. So, no other thing to do but sandblast, epoxy primer, K36, sealer then another try.

Moral of the story.. I do EXACTLY what is recommended and even then I WILL be punished in some way. So, I follow everything to the letter to minimize this phenomenon, which is clearly real since it happens to me over and over again.

Oh man, that must have hurt Deve. I can see you keep after it and work through the problems. Your work looks excellent. I have saved a lot of grief with comments from you and others here. I thank you guys for that.

I'm to the point of needing glaze or putty. I remember you saying you used polyester glaze. Which on was that? I think there are more of that than primers!

Dennis

http://www.tcpglobal.com/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=FIB+400

I use that, but they have several grades. Evercoat also makes my favorite Rage Gold body filler, so, by using same brand chemicals there is a better chance that its made to work together?!

I am very persistent and I have no qualms about sandblasting a part and starting all over again. For me, its about doing the best job possible, so time, profit, etc isn't part of the deal. Frustration however, that is in abundance to say the very least!

Thanks. I just added it to my next TCPGlobal order. I've been so into this phase that I forgot I was going to do shoulder belts. Geez! I just placed that order too. I was going to do that earlier so as not to mess the paint. I don't do this for profit either so no real matter.

Dennis

I know right? Haha. Profit? WHASSAT?

I am at the point right now where I have rims and hubcaps on order but the chassis is done other than that. Engine, brakes, all mechanicals are installed and working. In about 3 weeks once the rims and caps arrive, I will clean and prep the rims for painting, strip the chrome off the hubcaps, and prep everything for my paint scheme.

But meanwhile, I am looking over the cab and I have the seatbelt system done, but I am going to do a few things over the top.. 1) Quarter-Turn (Zues) fasteners on the transmission cover, and 2) drawers under the seat. This will be accomplished with a center steel reinforcement that doubles as a side rail for the drawer slides and metal drawers shaped to utilize as much of the real estate possible. I am not sure whether or not to use a maple drawer front (matching the bed floor) or carefully cut the drawer openings and re-use the metal that is already there to face them. Again, quarter turn wing fasteners to lock them so they don't cause an accident. Lastly, maybe, a fire extinguisher bracket welded into the drivers cab corner, but support is an issue. Lots of decisions and LOTS OF FUN!

BTW I did a how-to on seatbelts for the AD if it helps on your 40.

Deve, thanks for the info. I was looking at the P sheets for the DAS3025 and K36 and I don't see where DAS3025 is listed as a compatible topcoat over the K36. Could that be part of the lifting problem your experiencing? Of course, I'm not a paint expert at all.