The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
6 members (J Lucas, Hotrod Lincoln, Jon G, Otto Skorzeny, MikeE, ShopRag), 83 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,036
Posts1,055,450
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1001426 01/23/2014 7:38 PM
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
I am starting the rebuild of my Master Cylinder. The Cap seemed to have a hole in it. But, after removal, I see a kind of soft piece under the Cap.

Master Cylinder

Wow, it was very dirty and gunky inside. I will follow the manual and clean it out with alcohol, and then try and rebuild.

Any other advice on cleaning, or the cap? Does it look right, or should I buy another?

I suppose that as filthy as the MC is, I should plan on replacing brake lines.?.

Thanks


1953 3100

Melbourne, FL
Veteran
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
My theory on brakes is do it once, do it right. For you to be asking on this forum means your brake system is at least 30 years old. Most vehicles have never had the brake fluid changed. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and lines rust from the inside out. If your master cylinder looks like that your wheel cylinders do too. The flex hoses are deteriorating. Replace everything. Do it once, do it right.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
The "soft" part in the cap is an early method to keep from pressurizing the MC. Just like the rubber cup that will expand to compensate for lower fluid levels in the modern reservoir. Clean it as well as you can. And yes if there is rust you have had moisture in the system, the entire system. Take it all apart. Lines, hoses, wheel cylinders and the MC. Careful inspection now will save your life later. 60 year old rubber parts? Time for some new ones. Rust and pits on a brake line? Replace. Little pits in the wheel cylinder? Hone and fit new cups. If it don't leak OK. If it does? New part. You get the idea. Enjoy


Steve H
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
thanks guys. I disassembled the MC as the photos show. I have a rebuild kit, and will apply that to the MC. I was unsure what to do with the lines. I also have rebuild parts for the wheel cylinders, and will take care of that in due course. I will now try to find the proper brake tubing and replace that. Being in Italy, ordering pre-bent stuff is very expensive due to abnormal sizes. If I can find the nuts, I should be able to find appropriate tubing here.....off I go.


1953 3100

Melbourne, FL
Veteran
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
Guys, here in Italy, I am finding DOT3 and DOT4. Does it really matter which I use? I have read on a search here that DOT 5 is better, but DOT 4 or 5.....what do I need to know.


1953 3100

Melbourne, FL
Veteran
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
DOT 3 is recommended for older brake systems. DOT 4 is for more modern systems and might cause the rubber parts to break down. DOT 5 is a silicone based fluid and I have no experience with it. If DOT 3 is available I would use it. Are there any other thoughts out there?


Steve H
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
I use DOT 3, using DOT 5 could be acceptable but requires a complete new system as discussed in another thread here recently .... and make sure that hole in the MC cap is open, the cylinder needs to 'breathe' to work

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
Thanks guys. Sounds like it was wise to wait. I'll go back fo rthe DOT 3.


1953 3100

Melbourne, FL
Veteran
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
You don't want to mix different types of brake fluid.

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 168
Ok guys. I've disassembled the Master Cylinder and cleaned it up with alcohol as specified. It looks REALLY pitted. So, I suppose best to replace it.

I plan to order a new, original MC, and assemble with new lines

I have also been reading posts about upgrading to a dual reservoir non boosted system. Of course, this is a modification that I will be trying to do here in Italy with no assistance. Worth it or not?


1953 3100

Melbourne, FL
Veteran
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
Yeah I believe you can only hone .004 on a master cylinder bore. Sounds like it will need replaced.

John


Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0