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| | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 13 | I scored a Chevy 250 six cylinder out of a 72 pickup on Craigslist. It runs good and came with a three speed manual tranny. I plan on rebuilding it and putting it in my 38 series TD.
Any tips on fabricating motor mounts would be appreciated.
1938 Chevrolet Series TD 1 1/2 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 119 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 119 |
This doesn't address fabricating mounts but I have a question: if your engine "runs good" why rebuild it?
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 872 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 872 | For the cost of a tow (AAA will not touch antique/classic vehicles) a look at the internals is cheap insurance. If you run antique/classic insurance, you can add towing packages (I have basic towing for $9/year for 3 incidents, up to $100 per incident) but there are limitations. And $100 towing doesn't get you far.
Most charge $75 just to answer the phone.
I'd at least check compression and bearings, and look in the oil pan as a minimum before putting a 'running' motor (off CL) into a driver.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 13 | A $300 rebuild kit and a couple of hundred in machine shop work is cheap insurance to me. The motor ran ok but it has a lot if miles on it. It is caked in oil and dirt. Plus fresh bearings, pistons, rings, etc will make it reliable as a driver. And I plan on putting a CL turbo 350 automatic behind it.
1938 Chevrolet Series TD 1 1/2 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 872 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 872 | You might get a good idea if its even worth the trip to the shop by doing a dye penetrant test. Most welding stores have a kit for about $50.
If the block is dirty, then it won't help.
A poor mans test is to use kero and talc to find cracks.
$300 for a flux/clean/pressure test and measuring journals is very cheap insurance. | | |
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