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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 40
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 40
I am finally converting my 1946 3/4 ton Chevy Pickup over to 12 volt and I am trying to figure out if I need to replace my 6v light switch with a 12 v one and why...it seems to me a switch is a switch...unless it has a fuse in it. Any thought here?

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
you're right, the switch will be fine on 12V, there's no fuse IN it, and if there's one ON it, it'll be OK because 12V means lower amps

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
The dimmer may not work quite the same. Personally I don't dim the dash lights.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
Switch rating 101. Low volts (6) equal high current to do same work. High volts (12) equal less current to do same work. Dimmer is a resistor. To dim dash lights add resistance to the circuit. Here is where we get confused. In the best of all possible worlds you would keep the switch contacts from a 6 volt for all applications. Enough current for 6 volts and a good long, as in forever, life at 12 volts. The resistor to dim the dash lights would be matched for 6 or 12 volts. Bigger resistor for 12 volts and smaller resistor for 6 volts. So I suspect the manufactures, and this just my own suspicion, make one switch with different resistors for either 6 or 12 volts. I would expect the same for Heater controls as well. And like truckernix I don't dim my dash lights either. Any one take one apart to see if they are different?


Steve H
Joined: Dec 2011
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J
Wrench Fetcher
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J Offline
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Thank you all for your information...This forum is why I am a stovebolter.

Joined: Apr 2013
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5
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 165
Generally switches, like any electrical device, are rated for the amperage (heat) they can handle. 6v items carry twice the amperage as do 12v items of the same wattage. Therefore all your switch connections will handle 12v just fine given the same load (watts). Only if you increase the 12v wattage consumption (such as a stereo or amp) to over double the original consumption will you overload your original switch or wire. The formula is simple as pie P=IxE

Wattage(P) = Amps (I) times Volts(E)
24 watt taillight = 6 volts times 4 amps
24 watt taillight = 12 volts times 2 amps

If you are considering fixed resistance the opposite applies. Amps will double with voltage.

Sorry if this reply is winded.


36 Chevy 1.5 ton - rusting away
52 Chevy 3100 - in progress
72 Chevy K20 - DD

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Joined: Jun 2012
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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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For those not comfortable with electricity. I have found this to be helpful: Think water! OK, now, Volts is like pressure. Current is like volume. Resistance is like a kinked hose. Little kink is like a small resistor, tighter kink is like a bigger resistor. Watts? Like how much work can be done. Big hose=big volume=big wire and of course a little AWG number. Little hose= little wire and a big AWG number. AWG? American Wire Gauge. Current and Amps are the same thing. And yes all these things are related to each other. That is why the P=I times E thing works. P is Watts is work. I is current is amps is volume. E is Volts is pressure. And if you need to know E is "electromotive" force. Is this helpful? Smile and enjoy. Some one will want to talk about BMEP and Volume metric efficiency some day soon. Then some one else will have the information and I will get to listen.


Steve H
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
Originally Posted by Steve_H
For those not comfortable with electricity. I have found this to be helpful: Think water! OK, now, Volts is like pressure. Current is like volume. Resistance is like a kinked hose. Little kink is like a small resistor, tighter kink is like a bigger resistor. Watts? Like how much work can be done. Big hose=big volume=big wire and of course a little AWG number. Little hose= little wire and a big AWG number. AWG? American Wire Gauge. Current and Amps are the same thing. And yes all these things are related to each other. That is why the P=I times E thing works. P is Watts is work. I is current is amps is volume. E is Volts is pressure. And if you need to know E is "electromotive" force. Is this helpful? Smile and enjoy. Some one will want to talk about BMEP and Volume metric efficiency some day soon. Then some one else will have the information and I will get to listen.
Man, I can't even understand how water works. I pay the electric bill because they send the bill. I never see the electricity. What am I paying it for? It does hurt when you touch it though.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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