The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Am I missing some brake components?

Hi list,

I couldn't get my emergency brake to do anything so I took the rear drum off on the passenger side to check things out. It looks like that link piece at 3:00 is not seated where it should be but aren't I also missing he pivot thing that turns the adjuster wheel?

Thanks,

Joe

[URL=http://s1035.photobucket.com/user/mendonjo/media/image_zps2ce43b30.jpg.html]Brake shoe assembly[/url]

It looks like it is all there. The cross bracket is not in the groove. You need a lot more then just the emergency brake service. These are not self adjusting brakes so the adjuster is turned through the slot by hand with a brake spoon or screwdriver.

Looks like you need some new shoes and a little lube.

It's all there- - - -the linings are just worn to the point they aren't getting any contact with the drum. I'd suggest a full rehab- - - -new/relined shoes and a total cleanup of all the working parts. Is the wheel cylinder functional? A rebuild or replacement of all the hydraulic system parts is cheap life insurance!
Jerry

Hotrod has it. That is worn out. New shoes and remove the farm stuff it ain't need. Clean it up and don't turn the drums. Paint the bits if you want and it will work better.

Thanks guys, I thought the brakes were slf adjusting but that must have come later (my truck is a 55 first series)

For sure I will go ahead and replace the shoes and I thought I would install the spring kit while I am at it.

The brakes actually work well so I think I am fine on the wheel cylinders.

Steve H - you say not to turn the drums? I was going to but only because there is a slight (not too bad) ridge on the outer edge where the pads do not make contact.

Joe

Measure the drum ID first. The old rule of thumb on refinish/discard drums was .060" oversize for passenger cars, and sometimes .090" for pickups, assuming the truck had the usual heavier-duty drums installed. If the drums are at or near max diameter, you might consider just machining the lip away, not taking a full cut across the drum surface.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I think I will just have them take the lip off.

Joe

You might consider a new hardware kit, too. It's hard to see in the pic, but it looks to me that the spring on the equalizer bar is broken. Even if it isn't, a hardware kit is cheap insurance to make sure it all works right.

Hotrod has it again. The drums are not real thick like say...78 3/4 ton. So just take the lip off and leave the rest alone. That lip will cause you to hate taking the drum off in the future.

You must rebuild or replace the wheel cyls. when you replace the shoes. Even if they are OK now, which I dought, when you change position of the internal parts you will be working on the old gummy corroded part of the cyl. Its also a good idea to put a kit in the master cyl. It doesn't take but a very few years for the hydraulic system to go bad.