KillerKnight,

In lieu of a ballast resistor, you could use a internally resisted coil.

Your new alternator could have its BATT output attached to the wires that went to the BATT terminal of the old regulator. This might have had two large wires the were tied together and went to the horn relay.

The DA plug adapter should have two wires. The wire from #2 could be wrapped around and attached to the large BATT terminal. This will work fine.

The wire marked #1 (smaller & sometimes white) has to be switched ON when the key is turned on. This could be a terminal on the keyswitch or even the key side of a ballast resistor if used.

This wire can backfeed voltage, so if it isn't in a circuit that is switched open by the OFF function of the key, a small diode can be put in series to stop any power from being backfed.

The remaining wires to the old regulator can be taped up separately and the regulator removed.

This information assumes your alternator is a SI unit and doesn't require a external regulator.

Many alternators look similar..some of the older versions had similar plugs etc, but still used a external regulator, but not your old generator regulator. Are you sure of the unit you have.

There are other details of the swap from 6 volt to 12 volt, but those can be addressed as they pop up.

EDIT. Does this truck have a different engine in it now. Your profile mentions a V-8 somewhere, so my post might not be pertinent!

Stuart