I got the charging problem cleared up. Apparently the longer wire I added to connect the toggle switch to stop the current draw was the problem;I removed the addition and connected the wire back the way it was,and now the alternator charges at a rock solid 14.2 volts. I haven't a clue WHY that would make a difference,but it did. Next project is to replace the light switch. I'm not getting any power to my dash lights terminal in the light switch,and one of the sets of overload points is getting a very poor connection;it's been so hot the points aren't staying closed under normal conditions. Seems like this lighting stuff started with a pinched wire on the license plate light,and that started the lights cycling through the points in the switch. I'm wondering if during this,maybe some internal contacts in the switch got cooked,causing loss of connection or even cross-connection of circuits. I have a later light switch or two-I'll check them with my meter tomorrow and if they both work I'll try changing to one of them. BTW- would a 20A circuit breaker be enough to work on the power input wire to the light switch,to replace the points sets on the switch I currently have? I also have a 30A one if that'd be better.
I still need to find out what's up with the radio,but that's way down the list right now. Thanks for all your input-you gave me some good ideas and things to check.
Speed
