Denny:
I fully understand and admire your approach. I tend to fall between your approach and Deve's approach. I don't grind the cast iron imperfections smooth, but I will grind of sharp/rough edges on sheet metal stampings and I will fill the tooling marks and many of the visible spot welds (such as the four in the middle of the doors (interior side), but not on the tailgate or door jambs). I also tend to smooth many of the shrinking creases on sheet metal stampings.
But, back to plastic filler. Even on your approach, I simply don't see the need or benefit in using lead. No one sees it once the metal is painted and even ultra high dollar vehicles/restorations use plastic filler which is accepted in the industry. Only heavy applications are frowned upon or applications other than minor flattening of the sheet metal or a lead substitute. Also, the factory did not do the lead work very well and if you are mimicking the lead work, you must leave the leaded seam visible as such after paint.
Regardless, anyway one choses to do things, one thing is for sure...your work is admirable.
PS: Ultimately, I will need to find a new drivers doors as I ruined mine in attempting to pull out a large dent in the skin. The metal warped and I ruin the skin trying to shrink the metal. I ended up being a "bondo" sculpter on the door with plastic filler about 3/8" thick or more in the middle. The door looks good now, but I know what is underneath. This is the stuff that is considered a no-no. But, I had not choice and simply decided I could replace the door when I felt the need or bad things happen as a result of the excessive plastic filler. ugh!
