Wow. Looks like I stirred up a hornets nest with this one!
Cletis:
The truck in question is a 1946 Victory Series ("Art Deco") Chevy.
While the '46's and Advance Design trucks share many mechanical features (same differential, brakes, et cetera), the electrical system is pretty much the same as the earlier trucks'. There wasn't a fuseblock there. The only fuses were in-line, on the light switch, or not installed.
That having been said, I do have an AD Brake/Tail fuse box that was in a big box of "old chevy stuff" that came with the truck. I also have another dimmer switch and a crapload of old bulbs that don't work.
Truckernix:
It's the one in the 1942-1948 Chevy shop manual. I did notice that polarity switch when I was looking it over, and assumed that it was originally for something older, but was close enough to reuse.
The Headlight switch in my dashboard was replaced at some point (it doesn't have the correct knob), so I have no idea what I'll find when I pull it to hook up the new wires. I'm assuming (I know, dangerous) that it was sometime in the sixties or seventies based on the type of plastic that the knob is made out of.
The gas gauge was rewired at some point (and desperately needs redoing again) and whoever it was that installed the new wiring used an in-line fuse holder, so that's protected.
When I finally get around to doing a complete rewire on this thing, I'll be including some fusable links and relays.
~#~#~#~#~#~#~#~
So, now that I'm completely con-fused (pun intended), what did we decide?
Fuse yes? Fuse no?
If yes, how big? 15 amp is what I was thinking. I'm using 14 gauge wire on a 6v system.
