I'm with Tim. It sounds like you have a couple of issues. 1st, I just rebuilt a carburetor,(per instructions),for a '58 viking 60 bus. The initial tune of the air/fuel needle valve,calls for turning it gently,until it "bottoms-out".Then it calls for the screw to be turned-out 1-1/2 turns. 2nd,I installed a set of "Fenton" headers on my '55 T.F. 6500,and it didn't run properly,until I purchased the "heat" kit. In you case,I'd re-adjust your heat-riser,so it does open,allowing the fuel to vaporize properly. To prevent vapor-lock on my truck,i have a wooden clothes pin clasped between the fuel filter,and the inlet tube on the carb. I haven't had a vapor-lock issue,yet. If these steps don't help,it may be time to re-build your carb. Kits are readily available,and the process is fairly simple. the main purpose is to get the inside of the body CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN!!I re built mine,and 2-weeks later,it acted like it was starved for gas! One small speck of debris,half the size of a pin-head,lodged between the accelerator pump body,and the check-ball beneath it. While you're at it,it would be a good idea to use compressed air,and blow-out all of your fuel lines.(From the tank to the pump,and from the pump to the carb.) This will help keep your fuel filter cleaner,for a longer period of time. Hope this helps.
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 06/22/2013 11:22 PM.
