Problem identified!!!
I decided to remove the switch from the truck and "bench test" it with my multimeter. It was a lot easier to remove than I thought it was going to be. I just loosened the clamp holding it to the column, unhooked the multi-prong connector and unhooked the two wires going to the flasher. Took all of about 3 minutes to get it out of the truck.
I decided to do it that way because its about 20 degrees outside and I don't have a heated garage. I like working at the kitchen table.
After I mapped out the circuits as described in the tech tip, I discovered that there was a problem inside the switch with the left front signal. No continuity where there should have been. Its too hard to describe how exactly the switch is put together. Bottom line is juice wasn't going from the contact on the back of the switch to the soldered in wire on the front of the switch. I tried to melt some more solder in there to improve the connection but couldn't get anything to stick. All the other contacts checked out fine. Just not the left front blinker.
The four ways function by bridging all the wire connections on the underside of the switch. The current doesn't travel through the normal contacts. That why the 4 ways worked but not the front left blinker.
There is a descent amount of "switch grease" inside the switch. I think that is what was keeping the solder from sticking. I may try to clean some of it off to see if I can fix up the connection. Is there any special kind of solder to use on switches like this?
My fun meter is just about pegged on this switch. I may just run up to Jim Carters tomorrow afternoon and buy a new one.
On an unrelated but happy note, started the Burb up while I was taking the switch out. Fired right up on the first try and ran like a champ even though its 20 degrees outside. Thanks to Joe for the work on the carb and the timing. Hooah!!
