I don't know what the heck you said in your 10:03 pm post BUT: Maybe you said that you hooked up the new switch to the old wire harness/connector and you matched color from one diagram to another. What you need to do is make sure you
match functions of switch wires to the same function of the existing harness wires.
I would not do color matching if that is what you have done?. So the wiring to the lights are original wires? which may or may not be correct colors depending on how many times others have rewired it? And you wired in the new switch and it's wires, that may or may not match 1958 GM color codes, to this old harness using color matching? Do the function thing and make sure you know where each old wire goes using continuity test (buzz out) or hot test, as mentioned by Red58. Continuity test is done without voltage being applied. A normal multimeter, set to DC ohms, passes a current from the multimeter battery thru the wire or component being tested to see if it is uninterrupted and goes where you expect it to go. You have to touch each end of the wire or component with each lead of the multitester. You will need to extend the leads of the tester to test "long" runs. You will read needle movement (continuity) or no needle movement (open or not connected). you can test circuitry paths or grounding thru metal. They call it buzz out because in industry they use a buzzer to tell the technician that there is continuity, don't have to stare at a dial. If you keep taking the switch apart you WILL screw it up. As Red58 says, testing just the switch is done by disconnecting the connector and running a continuity test for function at the contacts in the connector half on the switch harness. And test the existing harness by "buzzing out" the contacts in the other half of the connector. In the American Autowire Wiring Diagram it shows 8 wires going to a column. One is to the horn. Then there are three hot wires, 12V from brake switch, 12V feed for turn sigs (this comes from turn flasher) and 12V feed for hazard (this comes from hazard flasher). then there are right and left Rear turn/stop and right and left front park/turn. See if your switch connects the proper Voltage input to the proper output according to your switch diagram. Example: Lever moved to left turn; 12v switch feed for turn sig should show continuity to front and rear left lamp output of switch. If, for example, this was pin 1, 2 and 3 of the connector, you should get continuity to 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. You will also see continuity between stop feed and right rear lamp output. No other pins should show continuity to any other pins. I am going by my test info I have developed for testing original switches and assume the aftermarket works the same. Write it all down as you go and re-pin as necessary. Contacts/pins are usually front release, rear removeable.
If switch is bad and you get a refund, why don't you just get an original turn sig assembly from CL or Ebay? and rig up a hazard switch or get some flares
