Out of curiosity guys, why does my meter read 24-28 volts DC when attached to the positive side of the coil AFTER the ballast resistor? Is the coil producing the voltage increase? Or did I screw up something with the test leads?
Or did I just find my problem?
...Newsflash...I did screw up the test; Left the reading glasses in the house last night and was turned to the alternating current scale. Oops. Found this out when I did tonight's test:
Read the voltage drop across the ballast resistor; 14.2 volts on the feed side and 12.3v on the resisted side.
Bypassed the ballast resistor, as Red58 suggested (way back when) by connecting the two wires that go to it together (with the screw and nut that go to these loop terminal ends). Ignition on...15.5 volts.
Started and ran it for a while at idle and with rpms up. Readings varied between 15.5 and 15.8. No stalls, but still idling a little rough from (probably) my timing setup.
Got brave and headed up the driveway. Ten times, uphill and downhill. No voltage drops below 14.2, which happened as the engine bogged in first gear and zero gas (normal behaviour). Could not make it cut out like before.
This was not a comprehensive test drive as it was near dark, was 18 degrees out, and I was in my pajama bottoms and slippers. Plus I don't have front fenders, so no headlights, etc. So, the real verdict will have to wait on a comprehensive test run. Which may be this weekend.
Questions:
1. Is a 2v drop normal for the ballast resistor?
2. Is there any reason a ballast resistor would work sometimes and simply cut out others?
3. Is there another test procedure I can run that will confirm a bad ballast resistor, if indeed this is what you think may be the issue?
Always appreciating suggestions,
Jim
Last edited by Fourbrads; 01/23/2013 5:01 PM. Reason: Rookie Mistake
