Thanks guys I will probably get the 100 amp one however I am still curious what the amps or watt's are.
If anyone knows please assist me. Its for my curiosity. If I can not find out I will perform a bench test and post. I am half way there now I just have to pull the wipers.
In the a/c world I get to work on dc buss in variable frequency drives and complexed circuits from 460 to 24 volts. Plus I have been bitten a few times. After 24 years I hope I am a little knowable at least I do not have to wear a flash suit working on my truck.
As any old info in manuals I really do not trust as mistakes and translations and interpretions are made, I was only going to use it as a guide line. Yes definitely I realized that when converted from 6 to 12 volts they could save some pennies on the copper. I have seen "rookie" mishaps because of overloaded and underprotected circuits. On stationary machines I can handle the repair but when I am in traffic with 115 deg f temps I do not want my ride to do the puff the magic dragon show. MAD electric has some great reading info on his web page and I am applying some of his practices on my ride. As far as the amps being lower from a 12 volt system I was aware of the I was not sure if the motor was different because of the year. One thing is for certain after reviewing the circuits in the truck and 2008 car I will only be confident in wiring my truck not too much earlier models. Between here and the shop manual I traced every wire and it really helped to understand the trucks wiring. It really incredible that all the power back then with out fusible links was brought into the cab and energy up into the light switch and ignition switch.
Thanks guys for the input
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen
56 Chevy 3100