Originally Posted by Scott Danforth
I went the route of the S-10 swap initially. I looked into kits, I researched doing it myself based on swaps from the HAMB,etc. the S-10 track width is 4" narrower, requiring you to run spacers in the front. the worse place to put weight is unsprung.

you also have to run the 4x4 rear axle (a bit over 3" wider than the 2WD) to get the rear tires to fit.

Then I looked into pinto based suspensions. (remember, the mustang II is a pinto with different sheet metal outer body) that didnt fly either.

in my S-10 frame swap project, I got to the point where I was having problems with steering and cooling system both trying to occupy the same space at the same time.

then I developed my own IFS.

a while back I put together a definitive list of upgrades:

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=80741&Number=571697#Post571697

a few interesting things. a Dakota track width is closer to the AD than the S-10 is.

Your points on needing spacers and the 4X4 diff are true, if you want it to have a stock track width. It all depends on the look you want. On my S-10 swap and my dad's, we both went with wider wheels to fill the gap, as we like that look better. So we're both running 15x8 wheels up front with 3.5" backspacing, and 15x10 out back with 3.75" backspacing.

Anyone choosing to go this route needs to double check the backspacing before they buy wheels, as there are clearances to be concerned with on both front and back.

I have seen the kits, and they are highly overpriced and don't get the cab very low over the frame. You can do your own and end up with a much better result if you have some fabrication skills.

1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket