I wouldn't try pulling it around to "loosen it up". Best way to properly break it in would be to run the engine. Add a bottle or 2 of EOS then run it at approximatly 2000-2500 for about 20 minutes or soo. No idling! Once you've done that, change the oil and filter (if eqipped, highly reccomended).
You mention using silicone as a gasket sealer, you really shouldn't. Silicone rtv is intended as a gasket maker, to be used in place of a cut gasket. For a sealer, Indian Head or Permatex High Tack will do fine.
Yeah, I added a bottle of EOS before I found the leak. I may just try starting it when the parts get here then, just like you said. Also, you're right about that RTV, I just checked the package. Never noticed that it was a gasket maker instead of sealer. The problem is, I used Indian Head on the timing cover and it failed. Granted, it's been on there for about a year without the engine ever being run, so that might have contributed. Still, I'm a bit leery of using it again.
If it were me, I would drop the pan and pull the front bearing cap first. I would carefully apply some sealant between the front bearing and timing plate. (hoping of course that its just leaking from the lower half)
I think I'll be priming my oil pump before I take my engine off the stand for this reason!
good luck
Mark
Hah, I hope you don't have the same issue! I think you're right though. I may be able to check it / seal it with the pan off, because it doesn't seem like a major leak. I smeared some heavy duty grease on the outside of the lip between the pan and the plate, and for now that seems to have held off the oil (or I leaked out so much that it's too low in the pan now... ). Either way, I'll definitely give that a try before I go pulling the entire engine, thanks for the suggestion.
I've read that these plates can cause sealing problems on some forums, so I guess it's not all that uncommon. Still, it's giving me a headache to think I'll have to disassemble everything.
