Hey guys,
I finally got my 235 over to the machine shop. They called me yesterday, and it looks like the last owner did a number on the top of the cylinders with a ridge reamer. The worst taper is on the number one cylinder at .025, which would explain my 90 pounds of compression. Also, three different compression rings were broken, and three lifters apparently came apart. I didn't think solid lifters came apart, but that's what he said. I now have a few questions:
They said they are going to try to bore the number one cylinder to take a 040 piston, and if it's too big they'll sleeve it down to 030 and bore the rest to match. Am I better off with a sleeve and 030 or boring all 6 to 060? I know pistons/rings are available up to 080, is going to 060 going to cause overheating? Machinist recommends the 030 and sleeve, because it will allow another rebuild down the road if needed, and should run cooler. Is he just trying to sell me a $100 sleeve?
Second, I'm debating rebuilding the motor myself, or having him do it. Cost to assemble the shortblock is $320, and I think that money could be better spent on a t-5 swap.
The problem is, I've never rebuilt a motor before. Going off a Chevytrucks article,
http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/engine4.htm, it doesn't seem all that complicated, although the article talks about shims on the main bearings, I don't think they apply to a truck engine. Assuming I get a copy of the assembly manual along with parts from Patricks, is there anything else I should know, or will need? Any special tools outside of a torque wrench and ring compressor?
Finally, while at the machine shop I am going to have them drill and tap the nose of the crank for a SBC dampner bolt, is there anything else I should think about modifying while the engine is apart? I read someone mention installing a speedi-sleeve, are they always necessary?
I know this is a ton to read, and I appreciate all the help. Too many questions!
Vince
